Jai Nepal!

Art at Indra's House

2009-06-13T04:52:00.001-04:00

Today's fun was a visit to the home of Indra, his wife and their children: Alisa, Alina and Anis. Indra is my colleague at READ Nepal. Artful creations were made using stickers and colored pencils. My art, a tropical rendition with palm trees and a banana-eating monkey, was hung by Anis in a place of honor on the family wall. I took their art home where it is now on display in my bedroom.

After the studio session, we ate a wonderful Thakali meal. Mitosa!

Fighting Maternal Mortality: Nyaya Health

2009-06-10T02:25:00.003-04:00

Adapted from the Nyaya Health website and an article by Kong Yen Lin in this week's Nepali Times:

On June 15, Bayalpata Hospital, which has been shut for 30 years due to political turmoil and violence, reopens with the aim of fighting maternal mortality in a district where one in every 250 women die from pregnancy complications and illegal abortions.

Established by Nyaya Health NGO, the eight-building complex will have a clinic for maternal and child health and a women's ward for abortions and deliveries. The team of 40 will include two doctors, rotating surgeons and gynaecologists. There will be a 24-hour free delivery service and caesarean section operating unit.

"Our goal is to ensure that no mother should die from delivery related difficulties," says Medical Director Jhapat Thapa, "And locals won't have to pay for more costly health care in India or Dhangadi."

While government hospitals charge about Nepali rupees 1,000 to 3,000 for safe abortions, Bayalpata hospital is planning to offer the service for free, in a bid to reduce illegal, often lethal, procedures.

While the STD infection rate is estimated to be 0.5 per cent nationally, that of Accham is 20 times more because of the high percentage of migrant workers. According to ASHA, another NGO offering HIV support, 70 per cent of the infected are women. Bayalpata will provide anti-retroviral therapy and drug treatments preventing mother to child transmission.

With chronic shortages of water, food and power and frequent highway bandas delaying supplies in Accham, Bayalpata's goals seem ambitious. But health workers are optimistic by contrast with the conflict years when frequent raids and extortions kept many hospitals closed.

Walk to Thamel

2009-06-06T06:41:00.002-04:00

Chill to Chill: OR2K and the Comfort Zone

2009-06-06T05:27:00.002-04:00

Ate Falafel dinner at OR2k (light to Kathmandu in Israeli) with Viviane sitting on the floor cushions reading the menu under the black lights with Hendrix in the background. There's nothing like dining with your legs stretched out in front of you and your elbow propped on cushions. We could've stayed for hours.

But on to more chill at The Comfort Zone atop a Thamel building. At the spacious candlelit lounge (partially under cover) we gazed up at the stars and caught the breeze while listening to smooth (ok, most of it was cover but that's ok) jazz band.

Both places seductive and compelling. Who wants to go home?

Sikka Nakha, Newar Bandh and Jewelry Design

2009-06-01T01:02:00.005-04:00

Friday evening I celebrated Sikka Nakha with my Newar family, the Mulepatis. On this day, the Newars usher in the monsoon season by cleaning their homes, courtyards, and sidewalks and by feasting on Wo, fried lintel bread, and Chatamari, Nepali pizza. Shanti is the best cook in the Valley...seriously. Of course, the evening ended with several rounds of rachsi...Newari liquor.

Today, is a Valley-wide bandh sponsored by the Newars who are rallying for an autonomous state. Everything is closed and all vehicles are banned. No violence though and I walked over to Yak and Yeti Enterprises to begin our jewelry design collaboration. Bandh BAH! I have legs!

I am also enjoying stalking someone's poetry. :-)

The First 36 Hours

2009-05-29T06:39:00.002-04:00

It's great being back home in Nepal.

After being efficiently screened for swine flu, Sudip greeted me and whisked me away from Tribhuvan Airport in a trusty taxi. We ate lunch at one of our favorite rooftop cafes and caught up on the news. It was good to see my family at Himalaya's Guest House and READ Nepal.

I also had a fun evening at the Entrepreneurs of Nepal meeting at Buzz Cafe meeting the powerfully creative trio: Ashutosh Tiwari, Ujwal Thapa and Sagar Onta...the group's founders. Good to see around 40 young people in attendance. If a jet-lag induced sleep hadn't been about to overtake me I would've stayed longer.

I slept well to a beautiful monsoon rainfall and enjoyed a very interesting breakfast conversation with Pem, Moni's husband. The bitten rice was pretty cool too.

It is good to have Viviane in the READ office and we are about to head over to Mike's Breakfast for a photo exhibit that will be introduced by the American ambassador.

Tonight is a Newari "eating festival" as it was explained to me by my host Dad, Mohan.

Trust me. Newari eating festivals are ALWAYS a good thing!

Can you see why I love this place?

Happy Anniversary!

2009-05-24T23:03:00.002-04:00

One year ago today, May 26th, I landed in Nepal for the very first time.

Little did I know then that I would be returning for my third visit one year later.

On May 28th I depart Little Rock for my home away from home.

That day also marks Nepal's first anniversary as a federal republic.

AUSPICIOUS!

KTM or Bust! A Personal Reflection...

2009-05-22T10:20:00.003-04:00

I depart Little Rock for Kathmandu in 4 days and I find myself in familiar emotional territory.

Two things, at the same time, all together in one space...confirming the largeness of life without duality. You have to have space in your life for everything all at the same time:

1. I want to go. I want to land and find myself in the rich stimulation of the senses that is KTM: the chaotic, honking traffic, the scent of incense, the colors of kurtas and sarees, the creamy taste of Nepali chia, the warm gazes and smiles of my friends, the stimulation of always being surprised by my home away from home.

2. I don't want to go. I find myself craving extra time with Katie, Maggie, my beautiful garden. My time with Katie is so brief before we both head off on our next big adventures. She is headed to Camp Highlander this summer to work as a counselor. She will have such a great time hiking, kayaking, and swimming with her campers.

And I find that I don't want to leave George. Who is this George person who has appeared in my life as I am about to leave the country? Oh yeah. Nevermind. I recognize him...I surely do...

So I am filled with wistful, bittersweet feelings today. Familiar.

Yet this time I know that a departure is not an ending. Everything continues no matter the distance. I know that now. That is the difference from a year ago when I first departed for Nepal. There is no loss. If anything, life is richer experience to share with someone because of the adventures.

All the beautiful richness of life is out there waiting on you...it surely is...

Powertalks on the Image Channel

2009-05-11T12:15:00.002-04:00

I'm so impressed.

A 28 year old powerhouse of initiative in Nepal, Santosh Shah, has debuted Powertalks - the only English talk show in Nepal. The assistant director and scripwriter is 18, the producer is 26 and the assistant producer is 22. At a time when some of the leaders and citizens of Nepal have only a myopic view of their own political chaose, these young leaders are presenting Nepal in its international context with the goal of integrating into the international community at a quicker than present pace.

Instead of playing Nepal's age-old blame game, these young people are interviewing world leaders about their own countries and regions and their views on Nepal.

How refreshing!

Since I'm still in the US, I'm watching what they post on YouTube.com as much as possible.

In Nepal, Powertalks can be found Image TV and on the radio at 97.9 nationwide and 103.6 in the Kathmandu Valley.

Tune in!

Nepali Women in Journalism

2009-05-07T09:05:00.002-04:00

In an earlier blogpost I wrote about the murder of 26 year old Uma Singh, a journalist in southeastern Nepal who was a champion for the rights of women. Her murder spotlighted Nepal's violent culture of impunity (Still no one has been charged with her murder although it was witnessed...the people are too afraid). Her murder was also viewed as an attempt to silence women journalists, and warn away young girls who might consider entering the profession.

Recently, however,the Nepali Times published a story about women journalists who continue to practice their profession despite or perhaps because of the danger. Go Girls!!!

There are several good stories in the article linked here: http://www.nepalitimes.com.np/issue/2009/05/7/Nation/15913/print

Here is an excerpt...

In Biratnagar, Radio Purbanchal is another all-female station which is trying to address the pressing problems of gender discrimination in the eastern Tarai. At Purbanchal, the only man is the security guard. Station manager Kamala Kadel is a 55-year-old mother who used to be a social worker before starting the radio to empower women through grassroots communications. The station's reach has grown in the past two years, reaching 75 per cent of households in Sunsari and Morang with close to one million regular listeners. There are around 40 community level organisations affiliated to the station and 2,000 households contributed funds and start-up capital.

The station employs 18 journalists and studio technicians, all 20-30 year olds from disadvantaged communities. Some are students like Lalima Ragbanshi who divides her time between her studies and working as a radio technician. "I'm excited to be in this environment where there's so much room for growth," says the 21-year-old.

Others are housewives like Uma Thapa who finds satisfaction and freedom working beyond the domestic domain and Gita Biswas, the co-host of the news and agricultural program Kakram Hama Samacht (Our Society) whose husband has now taken over the housework.

Daily news bulletins are aired in four languages: Nepali, Tharu, Urab and Santhali. "Most radio stations broadcast news in Nepali and this is problematic for other ethnic communities who don't understand the language,"
says Urab news presenter Mahamaya Urab.

Other programs include children's education, labour and employment forums, with the most popular, The Voice of Labour, reaching out to 400 businesses in the district.

"What keeps us going is our desire to spread greater awareness about the rights and situation of Tarai women, who are restrained by social deprivation in education, economic and health care aspects," says radio journalist Durga Sapkota, "community radio can be a powerful agent of change."

Asked about how the murder of radio journalist Uma Singh in Janakpur affected women reporters, Kamala says it highlights the critical working conditions that women journalists face.

She added: "We're saddened but unbeaten. There's nothing to fear if we're united."

Food and Wine Magazine in Nepal

2009-05-01T08:45:00.002-04:00

I love dispelling myths and delivering surprising news about Nepal. As most of you know I absolutely detest the terms "developing country" or "poor nation" for they skew or perceptions and bias us in unbelievable ways. These words hide the rich, vibrant and progressive nature of Nepal.

Most of my friends are quite surprised when I tell them that YES! Nepal has a Food and Wine magazine. If you don't believe me, check it out for yourself: www.fnw.com.np.

In this month's issue the cover story profiles successful young women in the hospitality industry. Take THAT old guard patriarchy!

There are also articles on new world wines, dealing with stress, east african delicacies, and even (hehe) a review of a film about an intercultural lesbian relationship.

Congrats to my new friend Suresh KC and his team for publishing such a nice magazine. May it continue to grow and flourish in Nepal!

Less than Four Weeks

2009-05-01T08:26:00.004-04:00

In less than four weeks I will once again plant my feet on the soil of my second home...Nepal. I can't wait to see Sudip and to laugh and laugh and laugh with him. This time I get to play hostess for a few American friends. Ahead of me will arrive, Viviane, student at the Clinton School, in Nepal for her international project with READ. Following me will be Ellen who will be on a buying trip with me for our new women's design business (Stay Tuned!) Someone else who is smart enough to visit Nepal is Joe, my Clinton School classmate.

I'll be staying, at least at first, with my family, the Mulepatis, in the guesthouse. It will be fun to see all of my friends in the Basantapur/Freak Street/Durbar Square neighborhood. I love the rhythms of that part of town.
I'm also looking forward to meeting many of my new Facebook friends there.

I have missed eating momos,yomari, curries, and drinking milk tea (it just ain't the same here)!

Anyhooooooooooooo.....I can't wait.

Yet I know I'll be returning to an insecure Nepal, a country struggling to take shape. The loadshedding is much worse and we can expect 8-12 hours without electricity per day. C'mon monsoons!...as the rains make the water that makes the electricity. We'll be facing water shortages, more numerous transportation strikes, chaka jams and bandhs. For now, the Terai is closed and Chitwan is inaccessible. Heading east to Darjeeling, a dream, is dicey. Getting to Pokhara is possible but delays are likely. I feel my capacity for patience growing just thinking about it all.

WATCH! The Challenges of Rural Healthcare in Beautiful Nepal

2009-04-14T12:26:00.002-04:00

Certain Poverty Without It: Family Planning

2009-04-05T09:05:00.003-04:00

In todays, NY Times globetrotting columnist Nicholas Kristof reiterated a fact. It's a fact that is steadfast and true, cannot be explained away and will not disappear no matter what the religious right espouses.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/05/opinion/05kristof.html

The fact is that without family planning, a woman, her family, her community and her developing nation cannot rise out of poverty.

A woman with many children must find and cook more food, care for more goats, water buffaloes, chickens, and cows, sew and wash more clothes, find more money for schooling, sit more hours with a sick child and spend more energy caring for the emotional needs of her babies. It really is a zero sum game. One woman divided by 2=1/2; one woman divided by 4=1/4; one woman divided by six = well...you get the picture.

And I've yet to mention the health risks: frequent pregnancies closely spaced lead to anemia and fatigue, risk of infections, and eventual, for many, uterine prolapse.
(Uterine prolapse is a HUGE problem in Nepal, and once the woman has suffered it she is likely to be booted out of the family and sometimes, the community.)

President Obama has lifted the ban on UN Family Planning and the programs which went grossly undersupported in last decade. The “unmet need” resulted in 70 million to 80million unwanted pregnancies annually, the United Nations says, along with 19 million abortions and 150,000 maternal deaths. That's a lot of families stuck in poverty! Obama's policy change is ...good news but not the total answer.

What else is needed? As it turns out, family planning is a complicated thing to accomplish. The distribution of condoms, pills and such without counselling and ongoing support are only minimally effective. Likewise, working with the men as well as the women is needed as much of reproductive behavior is cultural. In Nepal, as in many other countries, the women may not have much say in spacing their pregnancies.

Working with the youth is also required. The young people of Nepal will determine her future. And Nepal is lucky, there isn't much religious taboo against condom use and family planning. Or so I'm told.

Programs such as UNFP and CEDPA are doing good work in Nepal. What else is needed?

Your opinions, please...

Blog On Hold :-(

2009-03-23T21:07:00.002-04:00

Thanks to all of you who are asking 'why aren't you posting right now?'

I'm hunkered down writing my final paper for grad school. I'm SO ready to finish and return to Nepal.

I am, however, accepting 'attagirl' comments here on the blog, on Facebook or at jhwest@clintonschool.uasys.edu.

See you...

Reforming the practice of Chhaupadi

2009-03-11T15:40:00.000-04:00

Local groups around Nepal are working to reform the practice of Chhaupadi, the period of confinement for women during their period and for 11 days following childbirth. During this time, a woman must live away from her family and the main house, cannot work, eat regular meals, touch items shared by the family or be touched by her family members. For washing, the woman must use a separate tap or water source.

She is considered unclean.

Sometimes the woman is confined to a filthy cowshed or other animal shelter. Sometimes she must sleep outside on the ground. These confinement shelters can be musty, moldy, dank, and dark. Many are without available light or proper air circulation. Sometimes the women sit in the midst of animal excrement and foul standing water.

For the first 11 days following birth, the child is also considered unclean and can be touched only by the mother. This practice can have dire consequences for mother or child as complications arising during the postpartum and newborn period may go unnoticed. Also, the unsanitary setting may increase the risk of contracting infectious diseases such as diarrhea or postpartum sepsis (severe infection.)

Three years ago, Nepal’s Supreme Court outlawed Chhaupadi but its practice remains widespread. Most people still believe that to violate the confinement and allow the women in the main house will bring misfortune. They believe that if a woman eats a normal diet she will get sick and if she touches a family member they will fall ill as well. If the newborn child is taken outside the people in the village believe that God will become angry and the child will be affected.

Change is happening but slowly. Women, and their husbands, of the younger generation in Nepal are declaring that they do not like the practice. One young couple, recently interviewed for the BBC, tells their story.

In Dil village, Basanti Devi's husband, Ganesh said he wants to see the Chhaupadi system abolished.

"I broke the rules," he says. "I carried our child back from the health post where he was born and then entered the main house despite my parents' protests. I do touch my child.” His wife Basanti Devi, though, still has to go to a special tap, outside the village, to wash…away from all her neighbors.

"I wanted to give normal food to my wife but I couldn't go that far against my parents' wishes. We can't change everything at once. It has to be gradual."
Devaki Shahi works for a local charity, the Rural Women's Development and Unity Centre, and travels around advocating change. She speaks from experience, having been confined after her own son's birth.

Thanks to campaigns by her and others, the actual sites of confinement are at least improving in some of the districts in Nepal. If sheds are used, they're likely to be cleaner, less likely to be shared with animals. The women get better food too.
But FEAR keeps this tradition alive.

HOPE lies with the new generation of better educated and informed Nepalis.

Goats and Pigs for Freedom - Olga's Girls: Video About One Woman's Fight Against Girl Slave Labor

2009-03-07T12:47:00.003-05:00

Edited from a story in the San Francisco Chronicle:For over twenty years, Olga Murray of Sausalito, Calif., has dedicated her life to helping the children of Nepal, providing them with educations, meals, and health care they would otherwise never be able to get. She formed her nonprofit, the Nepalese Youth Opportunity Foundation, to do just that with the help of caring donors.

Her love for these children has made this 83-year-old grandmother fight one of the saddest measures of poverty in western Nepal, the selling of young girls to be domestic slaves, or Kamlaris, by parents too poor to feed their children. Some of these girls are as young as 6-years-old, and many are sold year after year until they reach adulthood when they marry and start their own families. For many of these Kamlaris, the lives they lead in their employers homes are filled with abuse, both physical and mental. Worse, some of the girls are raped by employers who feel emboldened by the girls' inability to communicate with their families because they are so far away.

Murray found that the way to end this Kamlari system was to help the families out financially, treating the cause of the problem directly. Her innovative approach was to provide the family with a piglet or goat, which they could raise and sell or slaughter for food. She also tells the parents that she will provide school for the girls. She pours her efforts into stopping the transactions during the Maghe Sankranti festival when the girls return home and parents make new deals or renew contracts.

Since her projects inception, Murray and her charity have saved over 4000 girls from slavery, many of whom have gone on to receive educations and become successful businesswomen after being trained in vocational programs. Many more have become advocates and volunteers to end the practice that once enslaved them.

Always Hope for Entrepreneurs in Nepal

2009-02-28T11:14:00.004-05:00

This is an excerpt from a conversation someone had with Min Bahadur, owner of Bhatbhateni supermarket/dept. store chain concerning the Young Entrepreneur's of Nepal. I'm reprinting it here...

Last thursday was talking with Min bahadur gurung, owner of the Bhat bhateni chain of supermarkets and an inspiring entrepreneur life story. Few pointers from the ever optimistic and ever humble (rags to riches) entrepreneur.

Background:Min Bahadur Gurung, from remote village in Khotang started his venture with $1135 opening a small grocery store and now he is a multimillionaire with retail super market chains “bhatbhateni” in Nepal.

a) It is “THE” best time to be an entrepreneur in Nepal (he says history has proved that a lot of big companies in the world are the ones who started right after a big war /civil war.)

b) Hydro Power and agriculture are fields he would personally invest in anytime.

c) wants a group of young professionals to start things off. and Old investors like him, are ready to back young group of capable professionals to start business (again, he sees lots of opportunities).

d) wants young people to dive in to the nepali market where anything and everything is up for grabs right now, and everything can be innovated. His idea of biggest social service in Nepal is to give fair employment to as many Nepalis as possible. He hires about 900 people right now, and planning on employing about 50,000 people directly in retail and agriculture business.

e) Patience. Min waited 9 years before he turned his small grocery store into a retail store.

f) Honesty. Min emphasizes entrepreneurship is about relationships. Therefore honesty is a must specially in matters of money. Have a honest relationship with your financial institutions, your creditors, debtors, co-workers, employees.

g) share. If you share much, you gain in business in Nepal.

h) Bhatbhateni is coming to a area near you (big expansion plans)

enjoy

Maha Shivaratri!

2009-02-23T10:28:00.000-05:00

It's yet another holiday in Nepal...Shiva Ratri.

Everyone is at Pashupatinath, temple of Lord Shiva - god of destruction and salvation. The usual rituals of puja and fasting are carried out along with another VERY special act - the smoking of the ganja weed. Hashish is now illegal in Nepal but on this day it is everyday. Sorry I missed witnessing this!

The street of my summer guesthouse, Freak Street, is named after the time when Westerners flocked to Kathmandu to openly get high and hang out. The good ole days, I guess...

The Boys and Girls are Alright: Partynepal.com

2009-02-15T09:40:00.003-05:00

One of the jobs I've been handed on this mission is to make sure the world has a well-rounded view of life in today's Nepal.

Yes, Nepal is home to Everest and temples and quaint villages.
Yes, Nepal is home to political unrest, development inertia, and 36,000 NGOs.
Yes, Nepal is home to saris, momos, milk tea and daal bhat.

But Nepal is also home to innovation, intelligence and just plain fun.

The young people of Nepal like to party just like the rest of us and as evidence check out this website:

http://www.partynepal.com/home_main.html

Party on, Nepal!

Women ACT Nepal. Righteous.

2009-02-08T22:38:00.002-05:00

Many of you know that I view some of the NGO activity in Nepal with a jaundiced eye.

There is, however, a very good organization working on women's empowerment - CEDPA. CEDPA = The Centre for Development and Population Activities. CEDPA has been helping women prepare to participate in the constitution writing and the new government in Nepal for the last two years. A Women and the Constitution workshop was held in February 2008 and the participants were inspired to form WomenACT (Women Acting Together for Transformative Change.)The WomenACT network has 36 NGO members working together to disseminate information and collaborate on the constitution-writing process.

In September, the group authored an important document to inform the crafting of the new constitution: A Charter for Women's Rights: Ensuring Equality through the Constitution in Nepal. The document is being used to hold the new government's feet to the fire during the writing of the new constitution.

If anyone can implement a powerful agenda for women it's this group. Go WomenAct Nepal!

http://www.womenact.org.np/

HILARIOUS! Facebook group: Fans of Loadshedding

2009-02-06T00:08:00.002-05:00

The people of Nepal are good at many things but one thing they are VERY skilled at is making fun of their ridiculous government.

Now there is a facebook group that pokes fun at loadshedding. Here's their tongue-in-cheek approach to the ridiculousness of the current situation in Nepal.

Description: This is a global group of people who are fan of the loadshedding and enjoying the free time of 82 hrs in a week provided by the Nepal Electricity Authority. I am feeling proud to be in this group and want to congratulate all the fans of loadsheeding who are able to create 108 hrs free time in a week inspite of their busy routine.

To join this group, following criteria must be fullfilled.
1. Time spend in sleeping i.e. 108 hrs in a week is not enough.
2. Suffering from irritation due to the direct contact of the beam of light produced from bulb and tubes with the skin.
3. Suffering from serious Ear disease in which ears can't bear sounds from radio, music player and other electrical appliances as electric motor, vaccum cleaners and so on.
4. Eyes can not bear moving pictures in Televisions and computers....
5. Must have tradition of having Candle Night dinner every night.
6. Must have mobile which when called is replyed by a girl who always says one thing....'swithced off'.
7. Must have email ID which sends auto reply from Post Master.

Something VERY right about Nepal: KUTUMBA

2009-02-05T23:29:00.001-05:00

Fortunate I am. I have heard Kutumba live - twice! They have a Facebook page with links to their music so go have a listen.

Quoting from their website (because they say it much more eloquently than i ever could):
"Committed to the research, preservation and celebration of the diversity that exists in indigenous Nepali music, Kutumba firmly believes that the richness in Nepali music is directly significant of the rich diversity that exists in the Nepali people. At a time when political and social attention is trained on recognizing differences and ensuring rights for our diverse groups of people, Kutumba sees the possibility of finding respect and identity through the medium of our indigenous music art forms.

As we struggle with this unique time period when we are looking inwards and fighting for rights, we also struggle with the larger forces of globalization when our youth find themselves exposed to global cultures packaged attractively by television and the media.

Between wanting to be the next big rock star and the pressures at home on asserting yourself culturally to be ‘more’ Nepali Kutumba feels now is a good time to reach out to young Nepalis and encourage them to find value, dignity and joy through the creative and stabilizing energy and beauty of their unique music art forms."

The Murder of Uma Singh

2009-01-20T22:40:00.000-05:00

The news of the brutal murder of journalist and human rights Uma Singh effected me deeply.

Uma was only 26 years old.

She worked for the Janakpur Today Daily and Radio Today FM.

On January 11th, she was attacked after she returned from work by a gang of around 15men who burst into the room she rented in Janakpur who battered her repeatedly with blunt objects, in front of other tenants. She died of her injuries shortly before midnight while being driven to Kathmandu.

No one intervened as they witnessed the attack.
No one identified the attackers even though they knew them.
Such is the culture of impunity in Nepal today. The context of Uma's murder proves just how bad things really are.

It was reported that one of the attackers said, as he beat Uma, "This is for talking too much."

Police have so far not identified any motive for the killing. Some of Uma Singh’s articles made waves in the region, particularly those in which she criticized the dowry system and spoke out of behalf of women's rights.

The murder of Uma Singh is the latest in a long list of arrests and murders of journalists in Nepal in recent months. Three journalists were killed last year and one was kidnapped. Nepalese journalists plan to hold a demonstration on today to urge the government to provide them with protection.

No one is in charge in this country.

Shifting Again

2009-01-19T18:20:00.000-05:00

My plan to only write positive things has been derailed...by the murder of journalist Uma Singh. (more on this later)

Now I believe my job is to write a balanced blog about the many positive aspects of Nepal while reporting the troubling current state.

Because Nepal is both, really. A stunningly beautiful place, rich in culture and history yet continually challenged by a government in transition and a weakening of security and the rule of law.

I pray that she does not become a failed state.

There are too many wonderful people who would suffer and many of them I call friend.

What's Right about Nepal: Yummy Yomari!!!

2009-01-13T09:59:00.005-05:00

Yo=to like + Mari=delicacy. Yomari=the delicacy that everyone likes! Yomari origates from the Newars,the ethnic group from the Katmandu Valley, and is a rice flour dumpling filled with good stuff. The most common filling is Chaku, which a sweet molasses-like concoction. It may also be filled with dhal (bean stuff). The triangular shape represents half of Saraswati, the goddess of knowledge, music and the arts. That's the anthropology lesson. All I know is that it is beautiful gooey goodness.

Here's a quick 60 second video on making yomari - copy and paste the link in your browser:
http://revver.com/video/65259/making-yomari/

What's Right: Janakpur Art Center

2009-01-12T13:50:00.010-05:00

These beautiful pillows are just three of the designs made at the Janakpur Art Center. The fabric is from the nettle plant and the vegetable-dyed colors are very rich. All very Mother Earth friendly. I have four of these pillows, all with indigenous motifs.

The Janakpur Art Center is located in, well, uh, Janakpur and it is another example of a women's craft cooperative changing the lives of women artisans and their families through economic development. They are working with me to create additional items such as table runners, placemats and coasters. The motifs are traditionl ones from the Mithilia culture. Janakpur is located in southeast Nepal near the border of India.

The people of this region (including the northern part of India)also depict scenes from their daily lives in Mithila paintings. These scenes can now be found on photo frames, jewelry boxes, textiles, and furniture. The women are adapting their art in ways that will be marketable and will help sustain the tradition. Oh yeah, their craft puts rice (instead of bread) on the table too. Below is a village marriage ceremony scene. The best part is to sit with someone from the Terai region of Nepal and enjoy their teachings on what the symbols and scenes in the painting mean. Enjoy!

What's Right About Nepal: Facebook - Entrepreneurs for Nepal

2009-01-09T12:20:00.001-05:00

There's a Facebook group out there called Entrepreneurs for Nepal

"Description: A network for Young, Creative People who have ideas and who want to implement it in the context of Nepal.
Interested in "creating opportunities" in Nepal? Share your ideas below and get constructive feedback. We'll try our best to help you shape your idea.
There is nothing such as "small" when it comes to an idea. Lets keep the ball rolling !!!
ARE YOU GOING TO NEPAL SOON and want to discuss some potential ideas? Contact us and we will connect you with the right people."

Their New Year meeting is January 15 at 5:30pm at Nanglo on Durbar Marg.
If you're in Nepal and trying to do business - GO!

It's a place to meet all those creative, smart people I've been telling you about.

What's Right About Nepal: Silversmiths

2009-01-05T22:17:00.003-05:00

The Kathmandu Valley has a history of making silver jewelry including ancient religious and cultural motifs. Here's a sample:

To Understand Me Now: Please, Please Please Watch This Video

2009-01-04T20:56:00.005-05:00

This past Spring, Sarah Miller, a young woman from Southern California took her first trip out of the country...to Nepal. In this video she compares her life in American with life in Nepal and somehow captures, better than I ever could in my own words, how being with the Nepali people changes you forever.

To my Nepali friends, I know that I can never explain how much you mean to those of us who have been lucky enough to visit your country, but I hope this video gives you some idea...

Thanks, Sarah!

Beautiful Nepal: Anuradha Koirala and Maiti Nepal

2009-01-04T13:56:00.005-05:00

I have not yet met Anuradha Koirala but I really hope to one day.

She is a widely recognized activist and lecturer who has dedicated her life to combating the sexual exploitation of Nepal's women and children. A former professor of English, she is the founder and Executive Director of Maiti Nepal and a world class hero.

Maiti Nepal is a vibrant organization combatting the dark underground of sex trafficking. Maiti Nepal works by:
***Direct intervention at the border with India. Twelve Intervention Center sites are staffed by volunteers who themselves were formally trafficked and understand the strategies of the traffickers. Located at the outposts are 'safe houses' providing shelter or safe passage home for the girls and women.
***Offering its rescued young women education with on-the-job practical training in Food Service, Carpentry, Massage Therapy, Baking, Mechanics, Hairdressing, Housekeeping, Security Guarding, Floriculture or Handcrafts
***Participating in infectious disease health research. Recent publications are found in JAMA and Emerging Infectious Diseases. Maiti Nepal's participation in the identifying and tracking of diseases like HIV/AIDS, TB and Hepatitis among the women is critical to crafting appropriate responses.
***Providing access to health and mental health services.
***Establishing hospice care. Maiti Nepal has established two hospices for the treatment of the women and children who are terminally ill.

The work of Maiti Nepal is not without risk. The criminal elements that "deliver" young girls are a ruthless enemy and have political connections at the highest levels in India and Nepal. Maiti Nepal's main office in Kathmandu has been destroyed twice and Maiti workers must travel with a bodyguard when overseeing rescue missions in India.

Anuradha Koirala gives gives much of the credit to her largely volunteer staff. Most of the workers are rescued girls and young women who are healthy enough to work. "They need little incentive from me," states Ms Koirala. "They are working to help their sisters and they know the horror of the victims." She adds, "Society rejects me and my girls, but they are the most important thing in my life."

Wow.

There is a US based group that supports Maiti Nepal. Here's the link:
http://www.friendsofmaitinepal.org/about-friends-of-maiti-nepal.php

New Year's Shift

2009-01-01T23:59:00.004-05:00

After discussions with a few of my Nepali business friends I've decided to shift the tone of this blog. In their opinion, the negative press that comes out of Nepal builds a misperception among their partners abroad and hurts their export business.

From the major news sources, the world only hears about what's wrong in Nepal with the government, services, security, etc. The blogosphere is also a place that is full of rants about the government and living conditions.Those stories are important and the world should hear them.

But what is right about Nepal far outweighs what is wrong, and I plan to talk more about that.

There are so many bright, funny, creative, talented, cultural people, places and things in Nepal. I'll have plenty to write about.

Of course, I won't be able to avoid the occasional rant against injustice. It's in my bones. But for every injustice there are people in Nepal fighting it in creative ways so I'll strive to balance the challenges with the solutions.

Stay tuned!!!

p.s. I've added a link (in the right column) to a brand new site that keeps up with the Nepali news. It's superior to anything I've come across to date.
The name is Nepal Watch (www.nepalwatch.com )

Shout out to my friend Sanjay Amatya for this site!

Dealing with the the Darkness

2008-12-30T21:09:00.003-05:00

I thought you might find some of the suggestions for dealing with load-shedding humorous...from the Himalayan Times.

Ten ways to lighten you up on stark, dark days

The new load-shedding schedule has caused much distress among people. Mindless timing schedule resulting in negative reactions from people is justifiable, though there are things, which we can to do to combat this dark vortex, which will only get worse with the passage of time.
We at The Himalayan Times have 10 suggestions to remain sane in the maelstrom we call “load-shedding”.
•Generation Y can spend quality and “quantity” time (12 hours of load-shedding) at home with family, as other places are sure to be enveloped in darkness.
•For the romantics, candle-lit settings are a perfect way to have dinner on nights when the
power is off from 8pm-2am (thrice a week).
•People can have a bon-fire on their terraces or lawns with a scrumptious barbeque to beat the load-shedding.
•Happier days ahead for husbands, as their wives will not be stuck in the routine saas-bahu rut. No hang-ups as to who will watch television when.
•Kids can get away with not doing their homework and have a plausible excuse not to study. Parents please note that it is imperative that you keep emergency lights at home if you want your children to study.
•With barely enough time to charge your mobile phones, you can watch movies at the cinema hall without your cellphone disturbing you in the middle of a racy scene.
•You can avoid a bath and get away with it. Others will smell just the same, if not worse.
•Married women can finally find time to catch up on their reading, order grub or make instant food. The mothers-in-law will definitely understand.
•You can sit out and gaze at stars, they are much more clearly visible in winters and if you are lucky you may see a few shooting stars. This can be immensely romantic.
•Last, but not the least, read The Himalayan Times back to back. We are really informative and entertaining.

National Power Emergency Declared

2008-12-26T20:53:00.003-05:00

The Maoist-led government has declared a national power emergency and decided to set up diesel-operated power plants to help meet demand.

Load shedding, on Monday, increases to 12-16 hours per day.

Keep the people of Nepal in your thoughts at this time. It is now very cold there.

BACKFIRE! Attacks Focus Both National and International Spotlights

2008-12-23T20:09:00.003-05:00

In an attempt to censure those journalists and institutions not sympathetic to their platform and implementation strategies, Maoist-affliated union members have triggered strong responses by the international community against their tactics.

I predict that this, with the hindsight of the historical lens, will be a watershed moment in Nepal's history.

Here are a few of the responses:
The National Human Rights Commission (NHRC)
"NHRC urges the Nepal government to make necessary arrangement to safeguard media institutions including Himalmedia and provide security to journalists," the Commission said.

UN's OHCHR
OHCHR asked the Nepal Police to complete its investigation the incident as swiftly as possible so charges could be laid, urging state authorities to take all steps necessary to ensure that the media has a secure environment to work in.

Human Rights Organisation of Nepal (HURON) said that although Maoists have attacked press freedom time and again, the government has not taken any action yet. The attack illustrates that the Maoists still do not believe in the principals of democracy.

The Federation of Nepalese Journalists (FNJ), Broadcasting Association of Nepal (BAN), Informal Sector Service Centre and Centre for Human Rights and Democratic Studies (CEHURDES) and even the pro-Maoist Revolutionary Journalists Association also condemned the attack and called for legal action against those involved.

The UML today boycotted a previously scheduled meeting with Maoist prime minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal in protest at the Maoist vandalism at Himalmedia. "We wanted to register our strong condemnation against this attack on press freedom and the values of democracy by the ruling party," the UML's Madhab Kumar Nepal said.

European Union: "This aggression represents completely unacceptable behaviour within the framework of normal and democratic political life." "Press freedom is one of the most important components of democracy, and these renewed attempts to subjugate the independent media signals a very disturbing trend that must be stopped."

U.S. Embassy: "We condemn the violent attack on Himalmedia personnel and facilities on Sunday, December 21, as a blatant, illegal assault on freedom of the press in Nepal. It was a criminal act to invade the premises and physically assault the Himalmedia staff: The perpetrators of this assault must be held accountable."

"We encourage the police to complete the investigation of this latest incident of criminal violence against the media as soon as possible and press charges against the perpetrators. There is no justification for the use of violence and intimidation by any party or organization in an attempt to control the media or threaten freedom of the press in Nepal. The culture of impunity that has protected some criminals from prosecution for violent, illegal actions should end."

Reporters Without Borders: "We urge the government to take particular care to safeguard press freedom," Reporters Without Borders said. "After the recent wave of attacks on the media, the Maoist party took no steps to punish those responsible. The government must guarantee the right of every voice to be heard by punishing violators and by not allowing its supporters to act with the impunity."

The International Federation of Journalists: (IFJ) "This attack on Himalmedia is an attack on press freedom and has nothing to do with the defence of journalism or the public interest", said Jacqueline Park, director of the IFJ Asia-Pacific. "We call upon the political leadership in Nepal, including the Prime Minister and the Minister for Information and Broadcasting, to promptly denounce this act of vandalism and take personal responsibility for ensuring that the guilty are appropriately sanctioned", said Park.

Blank Editorials - Actions Speak Louder Than Words

2008-12-23T19:54:00.003-05:00

Rock on journalistic freedom in Nepal! I think this is the coolest nonviolent social protest statement I have seen in a long time.

The Media Society and Editors' Alliance of Nepal, in a released statement, has strongly condemned the attack by Maoist workers on Himalmedia, and launched a protest program beginning with blank editorials in all member newspapers, television and radio news programs on Tuesday.

In a very public response to the Maoist-affiliated union member attacks on Himal Media offices and staff yesterday, the major newspapers published blank editorials as a symbol of the attempt to stamp out journalistic freedom.

The protest editorials appeared Tuesday in the Annapurna Post, The Himalayan Times, The Kathmandu Post, Kantipur, Nepal Samacharpatra, Rajdhani, Himalaya Times, Image Channel TV, Image News FM, Nepal, Kantipur TV, Kantipur FM, myrepublica.com, dainikee.com, e-Kantipur, Newsfront, Nepali Times and Himal Khabarpatrika.

The respondents issued a statement: "This is the first in a series of escalating protests that our media companies will launch if the current organised attacks on us by groups affiliated to the ruling party are not stopped immediately...We feel the attack on Himalmedia and other media houses represent a serious threat to press freedom, democracy and pluralism in this country, and it is ironical that it should be perpetrated by a group affiliated to a party that won the election and leads the government."

The raid on Himalmedia on Sunday, in which 12 people were injured, was the latest in a series of attacks and threats against newspapers, tv stations and radio all over the country in the past.

Attack on Journalistic Freedom in Nepal

2008-12-22T20:39:00.002-05:00

Over the weekend, at least 50 former rebels attacked staff and vandalized the offices of Himal Media, one of Nepal's biggest newspaper publishing houses.

The protesters alleged that the Nepali Times and other magazines carried articles critical of the communist party. They also expressed anger at the firing or relocating of employees affliated with the Maoist movement.

Nepal's Maoist Prime Minister Prachanda has denied any role in the attack. He told Nepal media the attack was by "immoral agents" who had "infiltrated" the Maoists. He pledged an investigation into the incident.

"This is a direct attack on free press and democracy," said Kunda Dixit, editor of the Nepali Times, which is published by Himal Media.

Hundreds of journalists marched through the capital, Kathmandu, on Monday in protest at the attack.

Load Shedding = Dark & Cold

2008-12-22T08:59:00.006-05:00

I challenge you to contemplate - really stop and think for a moment - what your life would be like if you had to live 10 hours of each and every day without electricity.

I hadn't gotten an email from Sudip in a few days so yesterday I Skype-called him and he reported that load shedding is now up to 10 hours per day. The reason I hadn't heard from him is that he hadn't been able to get to a computer while the power was on.

Wikipedia defines it this way:
A rolling blackout, also referred to as load shedding, is an intentionally-engineered electrical power outage. These blackouts are normally in response to insufficient resources and inability to meet prevailing demand for electricity.
I define it another way: Load shedding = dark & cold & a barrier to communication, business, development and progress. It's an everpresent feature (or should I say an everabsent feature) of the daily lives of the people of Nepal.

Here I'm quoting fellow blogger Bibek Paudel because he says it so well: "People plan their days accordingly. They sleep and wake up accordingly. Businesses and office-goers, professionals try to adjust their work and daily routine in harmony with the load-shedding schedule published by the Nepal Electricity Authority (NEA, aptly called No Electricity Authority of Nepal). NEA is very good at doing it. It changes its schedule and duration time and again, citing different reasons. In summers, its usually because of the flooding at certain rivers that grains and rock try to disturb the hydro-power plants. In winters, its because most rivers originating in the mountains decrease in their volumes because the snow melts less. At other times, its because one or the other power plant needs to be closed because of technical difficulties. At no points do we learn about measures taken to forestall annual occurrences of such events."

In a country where the snow melt runoff from Mt. Everest and the rest of the Himalayan range produces a power potential equivalent to the combined installed hydroelectricity capacity of Canada, the United States and Mexico, this is ridiculous. Less than 1 percent of Nepal's power potential has been developed. Basically, Nepal has the potential to produce enough power for itself, India and other other South Asia countries, with the sale of the surplus power fueling economic development.

Some assert that this latest crisis is falsely generated for some political motive such as government officials who will benefit from the building of diesel-run power plants. Others say that the current power plants are in such terrible condition that they cannot handle the load. The rapid growth of the Kathmandu Valley population is also cited.

Whatever the real reason, its a great hardship for the people.

New Warning from the US Embassy in Kathmandu

2008-12-05T18:09:00.000-05:00

For the first time in 7 months the US Embassy has issues a new warning about travel to Nepal. While I don't know all of the particulars that prompted the Embassy to take this step I do believe it reflects the weakening of security and the progressive audacity of the youth leagues that are harassing the citizenry here.

The warning was written on November 21 but only emailed to us today.
I provide it, for the historical record, in it's entirety below.

I am not having any problems, personally, so don't worry about me. Just please do worry about all of my Nepali friends and the country as a whole.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NEPAL
November 21, 2008

The Department of State warns U.S. citizens of the risks of traveling to Nepal and urges caution when traveling in country. The Department of State remains concerned about the security situation in Nepal and urges American citizens to obtain updated security information before they travel and to be prepared to change their plans on short notice. This replaces the Travel Warning for Nepal dated May 7, 2008 and updates safety and security information following the formation of the coalition government in August, 2008.

Despite the recent smooth transition of government, some unrest remains. The Young Communist League (YCL), a Maoist Party subgroup, continues to engage in extortion, abuse, and threats of violence, particularly in rural areas. Youth groups from the other two main political parties, the Nepali Congress (NC) and the United Marxist-Leninist Party (UML), have also formed and clashes continue among these political rivals. Violent actions by multiple armed splinter groups in the Terai region along the southern border with India remain a significant concern.

While protests and pre-election localized bombing incidents have decreased, demonstrations and disruptions still occur. During demonstrations, protestors have used violence, including damaging vehicles, throwing rocks, and burning tires to block traffic. Given the nature, intensity, and unpredictability of disturbances, American citizens are urged to exercise special caution during times when demonstrations are announced, avoid areas where demonstrations are occurring or crowds are forming, avoid road travel, and maintain a low profile. Curfews can be announced with little or no advance notice. American citizens are urged to consult media sources and to register with the Embassy (see instructions below) for current security information.

Crime in the Kathmandu Valley, including violent crime and harassment of women, continues to rise. Police resources to combat such crime are limited. Police have reported a number of robberies by armed gangs, sometimes resulting in injury to the victims. The U.S. Embassy reports an increase in crime in some popular tourist areas such as Pokhara and the Thamel area of Kathmandu. Visitors to Nepal should practice good personal security when moving about, especially at night, and avoid walking alone after dark, carrying large sums of cash, or wearing expensive jewelry. In several reported incidents tourists have had their belongings stolen from their rooms while they were asleep. Solo trekkers have been robbed by small groups of young men, even on some popular trails. Some Young Communist League members extort money from foreign tourists along some popular trekking routes, and have threatened physical violence to Nepalis and non-Nepalis alike for violating localized strikes.

Travel via road in areas outside of the Kathmandu Valley is hazardous due to erratic drivers and frequent road accidents. Public transportation, such as microbuses and tuk tuks, should be avoided because they are often overfilled, driven unsafely, and mechanically unsound. American citizens should use taxis with meters or negotiate a price with the taxi driver before starting a trip.

Most U.S. official travel outside the Kathmandu Valley, including by air, requires specific clearance by the U.S. Embassy’s Regional Security Officer. As a result, The U.S. Embassy’s ability to provide emergency assistance to U.S. citizens may be limited. Active duty U.S. military and Department of Defense contractors must obtain a country clearance for official and personal travel to Nepal.

The U.S. Government’s designation of the Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist) as a “Specially Designated Global Terrorist” organization under Executive Order 13224 and its inclusion on the “Terrorist Exclusion List” pursuant to the Immigration and Nationality Act remain in effect. These two designations make Maoists excludable from entry into the United States without a waiver and bar U.S. citizens from transactions such as contribution of funds, goods, or services to, or for the benefit of, the Maoists.

Trekking Day 4: Women's Skills Development Project

2008-11-23T01:26:00.001-05:00

Today was a business day so we rented a motorbike and visited the Women's Skills Development Project production center. This is the place where the women learn to loom the fabric for those great purses! We met with RamKali, the Executive Director and their current designer, a young woman from Japan. What a great day!

Trekking Day 3: World Peace Pagoda

2008-11-22T01:08:00.000-05:00

This is the view I woke up to the first morning in Pokhara. It's Machupuchere or Fishtail Mountain, part of the Annapurna Range. Yeah, it's breathtaking.

So Sudip decides we should rent a boat and row over to a trailhead on the other side of the lake....only he fails to tell me that he knows nothing about rowing about a boat so I get to be the rudder. We laugh hysterically the entire way across the lake. After the hike up, we land at the World Peace Pagoda. From there we have great views of the Annapurna Range, the lake and the town of Pokhara. Nice.

Trekking Day 2: Pokhara!

2008-11-21T00:56:00.000-05:00

On our second attempt we successfully rode the tourist bus six hours to Pokhara. We trekked up and down the road looking into the souvenier shops and then rewarded ourselves with a beer at a restaurant by Lake Fewa.

Pokhara is trash- and smog-free…at least the tourist area…and that is way more than you can say about Thamel in Kathmandu.

Sigh.

Trekking Day 1: Plan A...Nevermind...bandh!!!

2008-11-20T05:53:00.002-05:00

It’s a rare thing for me to be excited about getting up at 5am but I was today because it’s trekking time. Our bus was scheduled to depart for Pokhara at 7am so the 5am rising allowed me enough time to finish packing (which I did in the dark – load shedding) and walk the 40 minutes to the tourist bus park on Kanti Path. Sudip met me on Lazimpat and we were both happy to be getting out of the city.

Only thing, what bus? The buses didn’t show up that morning because the valley was under a bandh. A bandh is a very big transportation strike to the exponential power. Nothing moves (except feet and bicycles) and everything closes. If you try to drive you risk getting a brick thrown through your car window and if you keep your storefront open you risk the same fate for your plate glass windows. However, some of the people who own stalls or sell their wares on the street at Indra Chowk or some other alleyway or square are usually left alone. These events are designed to gain UN, foreigner, media and official attention so the main streets are where the action is.

Today’s bandh is due to the murder of two youths by, allegedly, members of the YCL – the Maoist youth force. The families and many supporters are protesting to demand that the Maoist led government take full responsibility for those responsible and provide reparations for all the loss and damages incurred. Really sad. But at least now in Nepal, the deaths of two young men calls forth a protest instead of silent resignation which is the case in so many other nations.

While heading down Kanti Path to Lazimpat, we encountered the live protests and I took a few shots along the way. For those of you who worry, don’t, we stayed safely out of the way and these shots are taken with the zoom. The protest was fronted by the security force and what we observed was angry but peaceful. We did see the bus that had its windows taken out and you can see the shattered glass on the street in the photos. There were some injuries but none that we witnessed.

It’s a surreal thing to witness for a contemporary American but makes me think about our own civil rights movement and the protests that some of my generation were involved in. More surreal still, Kathmandu and especially Kanti Path with not a vehicle in sight.

Trekking Day 1: Plan B - Trekking Freak Street

2008-11-20T00:05:00.000-05:00

Never ones to let a little bandh spoil our day, Sudip and I decide that since this officially day 1 of our trek that we are going to trek Freak Street. We left the bus stop (you know, the one without the bus)and headed for some power breakfast at Kumari's Restaurant. Sudip is staring unhappily at his fake cappuccino which was really quite dilute mocha. I, on the otherhand, am pretty happy with my bowl of muesli/fruit/curd.

Afterwards, we walked to Indra Chowk and down Asan Tole for some “window” shopping. There are small shops and stalls but it is also a street market where the Nepali people shop for fresh veggies, spices, clothes and almost anything. I think it is a requisite part of the Kathmandu experience for everyone who visits.

Friendship Bliss: Trekking with Sudip

2008-11-18T01:45:00.003-05:00

Tomorrow I'm (finally) leaving Kathmandu behind to go trekking with Sudip! Knowing Sudip is true friendship bliss.

We are heading to Pokhara and will trek from there. Pokhara is also home of the Women's Skills Development Project and we plan to visit the factory and talk about handicraft stuff. Plus, I have several orders to fill!

Needless to say, I'm pretty excited!

Kathmandu International Music Society

2008-11-18T01:26:00.004-05:00

On Sunday, at the invitation my new friend, Prabin (photo above), I attended a concert of the Kathmandu International Music Society held at the British School. The first performance was a jazz trio. The young Nepali drummer was amazing. In the second half an amazing Australian soprano sang several classical tunes. She works for an NGO here. Prabin organized the event and did a great job! Lots of culture in Kathmandu, Nepali and otherwise.

On my walk home, I was blessed with this sight. I think it is the Langtang range. This is the view that alluded Carly, Molly and I all summer.

My Landlady and Her Guru

2008-11-18T01:18:00.003-05:00

I'd like to introduce you to my landlady, Janisha, who is a 28 year old force of nature. She visits me many mornings with a cup of tea. She is awesome! In this photo we are about to go out to dinner with her spiritual advisor, Meetra. Of course, this is him in the next photo. Meetra translates documents from Nepali into English for the Embassy and other groups. In his spare time, he practices living in the moment and advises others. Innnnteressssting!

Never Turn Down an Invite - My New Friends Prabin & Family

2008-11-15T03:16:00.004-05:00

One piece of advice that you receive when you are new to a foreign country is "never turn down an invitation." I would add to that: "pay attention to serendipitous moments" and connections that lead to connections than lead to connections when you are working in a country the size of Arkansas.

As I was walking (hmmm...I'm beginning to notice that all good things happend to me when I am walking here...pay attention America!!!) through Thamel last weekend I had a conversation with a very cute 8 year old girl named Sophie. Later that day, as I was walking back home, Sophie and her Mom were walking in front of me and her Mom invited me to dinner and asked for my mobile number. Later her husband called me (because of better English), to set up the dinner. As it turns out, he is a pianist and has invited me to a concert tomorrow (Sunday) at the British school...jazz and classical. Last evening I met Prabin for refreshments and found him to be wonderful company. We talked music and politics and culture and lifestyles.

Did I mention that I love Nepal?

Visit with Indra

2008-11-15T01:50:00.002-05:00

Today I am very lucky because one of my favorite things happened...a visit with Indra!!!

I have been suffering with a cold from the last 3-4 days (as has Sudip, Janesha and everyone else I know!) but decided to get out and walk to Thamel to the wireless cafe to catch up on email. Luckily I ran in to Raju and Indra as they were entering the READ Nepal office so I came inside to work here.

Indra and I had a "brainstorming" session about ideas to help the people of Nepal. It was GREAT!!!

By the way, here is the site of another great NGO working in Nepal: http://www.chessnepal.org.np/ Indra worked with them and also Heifer project sites before coming to READ.

The other fun thing we did today was to set up Indra's blog: indrabhujel.blogspot.com
Teaching blog development...another form of public service? ;-)

Supporting Women’s Craft Cooperatives

2008-11-15T01:48:00.000-05:00

I’m here in Nepal trying on the dream: a chance to blend my love of art, craft, women and empowerment by exploring and working with women’s craft cooperatives. This photo has two cups of tea (Nepali milk tea) and not Three Cups of Tea like the bestselling book but the principles are the same. I had been sitting in at the retail storefront of Manakamana Handicraft Udyog (factory in Nepalese) and chatting with Krishna Sedhain, owner. For those of you who bought the wonderful felt bags, scarfs and purses from me upon my return, you’ll remember that I discovered this little store because Krishna’s laundry is upstairs and that is where I took my dirty clothes this summer.

Annnnnyhow, Krishna and I shared the prerequisite tea before business sitting on the little stools that are ubiquitous in Nepal. (I mean UBIQUITOUS.) This time I am excited that not only am I purchasing items and filling orders, I am creating new designs that the women will then produce. Also on this trip, I will be visiting the factory (ouch, can I call it production center please) to meet the women and assess the environment. I’ll file a report on that trip later.

Abode

2008-11-13T05:29:00.002-05:00

Here are a couple of photos of my apartment in the Baluwatar neighborhood of Kathmandu. I’m about 2 minutes from the READ Nepal office. Compared to the Basantapur/Freak Street area – it’s upscale and quiet. Compared to my space in Himalaya’s Guest House – it’s huge. I live in back of my landlord’s house and though called an apartment it’s really a small house: 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, and kitchen (although I only have a gas burner), dining room, living room and sitting area. It’s almost too much, really. But before you think I’ve gone too bourgeoisie this time around, please note that my shower spews only rusty water and has only two temperatures: scalding and ice cold. We still have load shedding (blackouts) 4 evenings a week, and of course there is no internet access. The ambient temperature is controlled by how widely I open my windows. So far it’s been Indian Summer here (warmer than Little Rock) so it’s been OK but we will see how I fare when the temperatures drop.

2008-11-13T05:26:00.001-05:00

On Sunday I visited the technical center for the Association of Craft Producers (ACP), a local private (no NGO support), not for profit professional organization providing design, market and technical support services for low income craft producers. I was taken on a tour by Gabish Joshi, a wonderful young man who serves as the trading coordinator. He leads a team who manage all of the exports.
Most of the craft production occurs in the villages but the 43,000 sq.ft. technical center prepares raw materials, develops and tests prototypes, and provide space for the finishing of crafts. ACP maintains a full-time staff of 60 and employs over 200 producers in 30 groups in 15 districts around Nepal.
Since it’s inception in 1984, ACP has shifted from an NGO-based development approach to one that is more aligned with how the private sector works. This is very closely aligned with the ideals and values in my philosophy.
Three cool things about ACP:
1. Design Quality. Meera Bhatterai, Executive Director, has focused the organization on this and it is clearly evident in the products for sale at Dhukuti, their retail outlet in the Kupandole area of Patan.
2. The Environment. ACP is committed to protecting Nepal’s environment and has taken a number of proactive steps: waste water treatment center; rain water catchment system; change from kerosene-based to water-based printing inks; use of recycled paper; smoke free work environment; and, the avoidance of using hardwood or plastic in production.
3. Producer Benefits. ACP has provided more than 1200 producers with not only increased income but benefits as well: savings program; performance rewards; workplace cafeteria; continuing education; education allowance; loans; counseling; paid maternity leave; clothing, medical and household allowances; an emergency fund; and professional membership and fellowship.

Pretty cool, huh? Wait until you see the stuff they make…

What's Up in KTM?

2008-11-07T04:54:00.002-05:00

I am very happy to be back in Kathmandu!
The weather here is like Indian summer - blue skies, no rain, no humidity.

I am living in a large 2 bedroom, 2 bath apt. behind the home of a family. It also has a kitchen, dining room, sitting room, garden...all for less than the guesthouse last time.

I am in Baluwatar which is a more upscale area of Kathmandu. I am only 2 minutes walk from the READ Nepal office so I can put in some volunteer hours with them easily. For now I am scheduled to teach (?) some conversational business English to them week after next. I think this is funny.

Next week I am going trekking with Sudip into the Langtang region to visit his home village. I'm pretty pumped about that.

I could not have a better friend in the world than Sudip Lama. There are no words.
A true friend is someone who has your best interests at heart and he is certainly this for me.

We have been working on the handicraft business and also the jumpstarting of his trekking business. It's a lot of work and a lot of fun!

Cheers to All!

U.S. Election Watch in Kathmandu

2008-11-05T10:00:00.000-05:00

(Wish I had a photo but no cameras allowed in embassy!)

This morning (evening your time), I attended the election watch party at the American Embassy in Kathmandu.
There were about 250 Americans and embassy employees (Nepali) watching the results come in.

It was solidly an Obama crowd and with every state called the room echoed with cheers and applause. We were served a breakfast buffet and most of us had a beer in our hands (at 9am) when Barack gave that moving speech.
The young event photographer (American, about 28 years old) had to put down his camera because he was crying so hard. There was hardly a dry eye in the house and it was great to be there.

I have never been so proud to be an American and while I miss being there with all of you it is great to be in a country where the people are celebrating right along with us.

Tonight I'm attending an Obama celebration at Mike's Breakfast restaurant - it's a place started by an American Peace Corps volunteeer about 20 years ago.

Back Home in Nepal

2008-11-02T05:03:00.002-05:00

I've arrived safely after a LONG plane ride or two.
Sudip met in the airport.
I have a wonderful 2 BR 2 bath apt. with a kitchen, dining room, sitting room and patio with a garden.

I am at the Himalaya Java internet cafe and forgot my elecronics converter so my battery is about to go.

It is noisy, smoggy, crazy, beautiful, strange Kathmandu.

I am SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO happy to be here!

More later...

Report from the Doha, Qatar Airport

2008-10-31T04:47:00.001-04:00

Unlike most American airports that roll up the runways at around 10pm, the Doha, Qatar airport is a bustle of activity as I write this at 2am. The terminal is still brightly lit as flights arrive and depart here all through the night.

It’s not lost on me that tonight is Halloween and I am spending my time assigning all of the costumes that parade before me to their appropriate nation or ethnic group. Even though this is my third time here, I am struck that this is the most ethnically diverse population I have seen in any airport. I am pretty good at distinguishing the Chinese, Japanese, Koreans and South Asians, but sometimes have a hard time knowing is someone is Indian, Sri Lankan, Bangladeshi or Nepali. I can usually tell the sub-Saharan Africans from those in the North and can discern most Muslims, of any nationality, by their dress. There is something oddly sensual about the women in their burkhas or some in other robes where only their eyes are visible. I think it has to do with the way the cloth floats around them when they walk and the promise of what lies underneath. The Westerners are easy to identify as they travel around in pods wearing their trekking clothes.

Noteworthy:
During my total 10 hours (*sigh*) layover I have only seen 3 other people using a laptop and very few talking on their cellphones. What in the world are they doing with their time? Most are talking and laughing with their companions.

There’s a McDonald’s like playground and the noises of the children cannot be drowned out by the overhead flight announcements.

There is only one shop in the whole airport - duty free. It's filled with booze, cigarettes, chocolate, perfume and electronics for sale. No books. No magazines.

On to Nepal!

Tihar: Festival of Lights

2008-10-30T10:08:00.005-04:00

*SIGH*
The realities of life - school, commitments and cost of airfare - have me arriving in Kathmandu just after the main festival season. I've missed Dashain and now I'm arriving in Kathmandu on Saturday on the heels of Tihar or Deepawali, Nepal's festival of lights.

Tihar honors Laxmi, goddess of wealth, and prayers are offered up for prosperity. During the five day festival, days are set aside to honor man's best friend, dog, and for sisters to honor their brothers. Cleanliness or brightness are also celebrated and reminscent of the farolitas in Latino culture, every home is decorated with oil lamps, butter candles and lights. At night, the city sparkles and on the third day of the festival, Laxmi alights her steed, and owl, to tour the world and assess the celebration from above.

I'm hoping that Kathmandu will be still be glittering for one more night, just for me.

Six Months Later: Nepal's New Government

2008-10-26T19:34:00.002-04:00

I've been checking into progress made by the new government while I was away and the information I've dug up is not encouraging...

Six months have passed since the monarchy was abolished and the Federal Republic of Nepal was established. Four months were spent forming the government, and two more were taken up with the budget and the celebration of the festival of Dashain. The government has formed neither a high-level political council nor a special committee for integration and rehabilitation of the PLA. There has been no investigation into persons who disappeared during the 10 year conflict. Their families have been waiting almost two years for information. Lands grabbed during the insurgency have not been returned to their rightful owners. The new government is far behind schedule in drafting the new constitution.

Meanwhile, the people of Nepal go without the basic services of life: safe water, electricity, sanitation, healthcare, quality education...

VOTING! Yes We Can!

2008-10-24T21:20:00.001-04:00

Today I joyfully voted for Barack Obama for President of the United States. Tonight I heard President Clinton speak at an Obama rally in North Little Rock. Pretty awesome day.

I voted "early" as I will be in Nepal on election day. So far this week, in Pulaski County alone, over 28,000 have stood in line for up to three hours to cast their vote.

As I stood in line to vote, I reflected - out loud to those around me - on the historic constituent assembly elections in Nepal this year. Some people walked for hours and others arrived at the polls before dawn to ensure that their voice was heard. Others braved incidents of intimidation and threats of violence. High voter turnout - approximately 60% of the 17.6 million voters - reflected the desire of the Nepali people to take part in a democratic process and their hope the elections would bring peace, stability and prosperity to Nepal.

Importantly, over 6 million of women voted in Nepal with hopes, for the first time in their lifetime, for better representation and a more promising future for their children. For the first time, women in Nepal have a chance for a voice in how their traditionally patriarchal country is run.

More Heroes: Nepal's Tibetan Refugees and Mikel Dunham

2008-10-23T10:06:00.005-04:00

http://www.mikeldunham.blogs.com/mikeldunham/

Mikel Dunham–photographer-has passed out digital cameras to Tibetan refugees living in Nepal, asking them to record their everyday lives. He hopes to put together a book, but in the meantime you can see some of the photos on his site (above.) Enjoy!

As a teaser, I've included one of the photos from his website with credit where credit is due, of course!

Hero: Mr. Lok Bandhu Karki

2008-10-22T09:23:00.000-04:00

On December 7, 2004 when he quit teaching and started cycling…across Nepal…and then the world. The 32-year-old Nepalese has already covered 32 countries, and intends to cover 113 by the end of his world tour in 2013. He is currently in Kenya for three weeks before moving on to Tanzania (keep your eyes peeled James Mitchell!)

Why did Lok abandon his teaching career and start cycling? To promote peace and universal brotherhood after conflict erupted in Nepal. Even though his role as a teacher was important, he felt that his mission for peace could do more good for his country.

"I've always felt that although we are geographically and culturally divided, we are all human." To Lok, peace is the most important thing in the world. "The whole world needs long lasting peace and if we can plant seeds of peace in our people and governments, every human as well as all living things will surely get free, fearless, meaningful and holy live."

"So let's not give priority to theft, robbery, kidnap, rape, murder and terrorism."

"Courage keeps me going," he says of his worst experiences in a journey which has also been characterized by robbery in Thailand, Malaysia and Sudan.

Mr Lok's bicycle has three flags at any time: one for peace, another for Nepal and the third for the country he is visiting.

Entrepreneurshipment from Sudip

2008-10-21T08:35:00.002-04:00

This week I'll receive my first shipment of handicraft goods from Nepal. I'm morphing into an entrepreneur, along with my friend Sudip, and this is our first transatlantic, heck transmultiplecontinental, transaction!

As you can see I'm making up my new words here...it's what entrepreneurs do.

The good news is that I've sold all of the felt items and fiber purses, EVERYTHING!, that I brought back with me from Nepal! I've ordered more so the business can participate in mission market at my church in November. My friends (I have the BEST friends) are going to staff the table for me and make more money for the women of Nepal! Sudip did the shopping and sent the package my way on Saturday.

I'll keep you posted on the arrival and the contents of the entrepreneurship box!

Fun in Birmingham, Fun in Nepal

2008-10-18T10:44:00.002-04:00

Katie and I are having fun here in Birmingham on all of our adventures: grocery shopping a Publix - real grocery store (Kroger, hello!); cooking together; sharing wine preferences; finding detours around ever-present I65 traffic; taking me to World Market (WalMart, pleeeeeeeeeease let World Market into Arkansas), and today, hiking at Oak Mountain State Park. Tonight, we'll watch SNL, and maybe a movie or two, together.

Nepal, however, even with Katie near, is not far from my mind. I leave a week from Tuesday. I'm looking foward to my treks with Sudip and us working on our projects together. UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon will visit while I am there and I'll try to run into him. Also, the Asian Mountain Biking Championships open there on November 6th.

Mainly, I can't wait to see my friends there and hear "Namaste!" a hundred times each day.

International Day on Elimination of Poverty, Oct 17-19

2008-10-17T10:48:00.002-04:00

Today is the first day of International Day on the Elimination of Poverty. UNESCO celebrates the right of every human being to:
*Food, Housing and Clothing
*Safe Environment
*Health and Social Services
*Education and Training
*Decent Work
*Benefits of Science and Technology
*Cultural Identity
*Peace and Security
*Non-Discrimination
*Access to Justice
*Freedom of Expression and Participation

In Nepal, Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal has appealed to political parties, civil society and international community to work in coordinated manner to eliminate poverty from Nepal.

In a message he delivered on the occasion of , PM Dahal said, "I want to remind all that the policies and programs and budget presented by the current government that I am leading also has put poverty alleviation as top priority."

He expressed full commitment to uplift the backward and disadvantaged communities in the country.

PM Dahal also reiterated his commitment to attain the Millennium Development Goals (MDGs).

"For any country, political stability and peace is the foundation for development," he said adding that the job of institutionalizing peace was, therefore, very important. "Judicious investment and distribution of public resources and services are the first duty of any state in the absence of which poverty-free country cannot be built," he stated.

The slogan of this year's international day against poverty is Lets Stand Up Against Poverty and Do Something.

For Nepal, the United States and the whole world I wish less rhetoric and more action to build the infrastructure needed for development work to succeed.

Breakfast with Heifer

2008-10-15T12:30:00.003-04:00

This morning I rolled out of bed at an uncharacteristically early hour for a very good reason - breakfast with my friends from Heifer Nepal! Mahendra Lohani, VP of Asia/South Pacific for Heifer International joined me, Neena Joshi and Tirtha Regmi, Sr. Program Managers, and Shubh Mahato, Nepal Country Director, for fellowship and discuss buiding the partnership between READ Nepal and Heifer.

I'm really excited because, upon my return to Nepal I'll be able to travel out into the field to one the Heifer Project sites. The Heifer Nepal folks are great people doing great work and I am happy to have a friendship with them. Thanks, Mahendra!!!

Curing Homesickness with Indian/Nepali Food

2008-10-12T23:22:00.003-04:00

Ok, so now that we have established (see previous post) that Nepal is my real home and I am only a missionary here in the U.S., I can admit that I can't wait to get away from here and back to Nepal. If Katie were here I'm sure that my feelings would be different but she isn't so...

In an attempt to cure my longing for Nepal I wandered over to the Asian Market in the same strip mall as T.J. Maxx. Demonstrating a total misnomer, the Asian Market is filled with things used in Indian and Nepali dishes. Well, OK, so they are in SOUTH Asia. But still...

In honor of Molly Brunkow and our love for it, I bought cubes of paneer cheese and some spicy sauce to go with it. How that works is that you stir fry the cheese and then add the sauce. I also bought some crunchy stuff that is the Indian version of Chex Party Mix except a whole lot spicier. This is the stuff that is in Mixed Chat, my favorite dish at Anmol Sweets, the Indian restaurant chain in Nepal. Mixed Chat is yogurt with fruit and this crunchy stuff in it. Carly and I had it and kept marveling at all of the goodness in one dish. So this morning for breakfast I had vanilla yogurt with strawberries and blueberries and the crunchy stuff mixed in. It was one creamy, crunchy, sweet and spicy dish from heaven!

Missionary in Little Rock

2008-10-12T23:19:00.004-04:00

Yesterday, as I was telling a friend - one that I hadn't yet bored with my tales of love for Nepal - about how open, generous and downright magical the Nepalese people are and she therefore reached this conclusion: Nepal must be your true home and you are only a missionary to the United States.

Man, I think she is one smart woman!

Dashain: Nepal's Biggest Holiday Season

2008-10-10T20:53:00.003-04:00

My friends in Nepal have been celebrating Dashain, their biggest holiday and festival. In importance it is on par with our December holiday season and New Year. Interestingly, the colors red (tika) and greem (jamra)are important in celebrating Dashain.

The 15-day festival falls around September-October, after the rice harvest. This festival is known for emphasis on family gatherings, as well as on a renewal of community ties. People will return from all parts of the world, as well as different parts of the country, to celebrate together. It's HOME for the HOLIDAYS, indeed!

On the first day, called Ghatasthapana, a special worship room is set up and used to worship the Astha-Matrikas (tantrik goddesses) as well as the Nava Durgas (the 9 durga goddesses), to whom the festival is consecrated. Married women will say the mantras for the next fifteen days, and guard the goddesses. Barley is sowed on big earthern pots which have a coating of cow dung. These seeds will sprout in ten days. The sprouts, which symbolize a good harvest, will be decoratively placed on the heads of family members later on in the festival as a blessing.

And here's the part that is VERY challenging to me...

The eighth day, Asthami, is the day of sacrifices. Goddess temples all over the Kathmandu Valley receive sacrifices, ranging from goats and buffaloes to ducks and chickens. Blood, symbolic for its fertility, is offered to the goddesses. This meat is taken home and cooked as "prasad", or food blessed by divinity. This food is offered, in tiny leaf plates, to the household gods, then distributed amongst the family. Eating this food is thought to be auspicious. (Auspicious is a BIG word in Nepali culture.)
Sacrifices continue on Navami, the ninth day. Families will visit various temples around the Kathmandu Valley. On the tenth day, "Dashami," a mixture of rice, yogurt and vermillion will be prepared by the women. This preparation is known as "tika". Elders put this on the forehead of younger relatives to bless them with fertility and abundance in the upcoming year. The red also symbolizes the blood that ties the family together. Elders will give "dakshina", or a small amount of money, to younger relatives at this time. The tika continues for five days, during which time people also gather to play cards around massive amounts of food and drink.

In several parts of Nepal, Dashain is the only time of the year when people receive a set of new clothing. Likewise, in poorer families, the animal sacrifice was eagerly anticipated since it might be the only animal protein the family would eat all year. This may be true in certain parts of Nepal where food is in low supply, but is less so in the cities. In general, the tradition of sacrifice is lessening with the easy availability of meat for daily consumption.

Mountain flight to Lukla crashes in Nepal killing 17

2008-10-08T10:32:00.003-04:00

From Yahoo! News:
A Yeti Airlines plane crashed Wednesday while landing in the Mt. Everest region during foggy weather in Nepal, killing 14 tourists from Germany and Switzerland and three other people.

The plane took off from the capital, Katmandu, and hit a boundary fence while landing at Lukla airport, about 185 miles to the east, said Mohan Adhikari, general manager of the Katmandu airport.

Adhikari said 18 people were on board. The crash killed 12 German and two Swiss tourists, as well as two Nepalese crew members, he said. The identity of one passenger killed in the crash was not immediately known.

One Nepalese pilot survived the crash and was flown to Katmandu for medical treatment, Adhikari said.

Dozens of flights land in Lukla each day and Yeti Airlines has a good reputation.
Looks like the weather was a major factor.

War on Sex and Liquor

2008-10-07T17:18:00.003-04:00

Home Minister Bam Dev Gautam has declared a "War on Sex & Liquor" in Kathmandu.

Apparently, there is a robust sex industry extending out from the dance bars in Thamel - the tourist district next to my neighborhood. I didn't stumble upon any such places while I was there, but I was rarely out late at night either. Who knew?

For last Spring semester's American Grand Strategy course I did my policy paper on Trafficing in Persons so I DID know that many Nepali women are trafficked to India for sex work, but there is very little research done on prostitution in Nepal itself.

The subsistence nature of large parts of the rural economy meant that there was no mass market for commercial sex until comparatively recently. Economic development and urbanization and the increasing integration of Nepal within global consumer cultures has altered this. Also, the 10 years of the rural violence associated with the Maoist insurgency forced migration to Kathmandu and women into the sex trade in order to survive.

Critics compare Gautam’s move as another populist measure like Maoist’s resistance to Miss Nepal Pageant. But, Gautam comes from a moderate communist party UML which advocates a form of democratic socialist ideals. Some hotel entrepreneurs, too, criticized Gautam’s strict orders to the police to shut down all bars and discos by 11 in the evening as dictatorial, fearing such actions would be detrimental to tourism industry. However, the Thamel shopkeepers have issues a press statement in favor of the ban.

New Kumari

2008-10-07T07:52:00.004-04:00

Here's little Matina Shakya after being appointed as the new living goddess or Kumari, with her mother Sunita Shakya in Kathmandu. She's a big three years old.

I'll see her when I return to Kathmandu as she'll be living, away from her family, in the ornate 15th century temple in Durbar Square. She regularly appears at a carved window to greet foreign visitors who are not allowed to see her in the upstairs chamber.

In a break with tradition, she was chosen by the President instead of priests following the abolishment of the monarchy.

Success!!! Shopping the Himalayas for the Holidays!

2008-10-05T09:02:00.003-04:00

As yet another testatment to the wisdom and good taste of my friends in Little Rock, they demonstrated their love for the art and handicrafts of Nepal by buying almost everything I brought back with me from my summer trip: felt purses and scarves from Manakamana; women purses from the Women's Skills Development Project in Pokhara, thangka paintings, Tibetan bead earrings, and beautiful cards made from Lokta paper!

A special shout out goes to fellow artists Judy Henderson, Jann Greenland, Michele Fox and Susan Strauss who participate in the sale and contributed a significant percentage of their take to the women of Nepal.

I'm excited that they gave enough money to so that I can recycle some back to the women's cooperatives, begin work on a website for Manakamana, pay my great friend Sudip for his work on the ground in Nepal, and purchase some more products to keep this great cycle of giving going.

I return to Nepal on November 1st and am there for six weeks on another buying and business exploration trip. Stay tuned for the date of the next sale of fabulous Nepali products!

American Tourists Returning to Nepal

2008-10-03T20:37:00.001-04:00

The number of tourist arrivals in Nepal in the first nine months of 2008 rose by 2% over the same period last year, officials said yesterday.

The Nepal Tourism Board said the negative growth seen from April to July had reversed and the arrivals in September were up by 1% as the total number of visitors arriving by air from January through the end of last month hit 257,181. "Tourists arrivals from the United States of America and Canada increased by 13% in September in comparison to the same month last year," it added.

Count me as part of the "surge."

The Auspicious Dashain Festival

2008-10-02T07:56:00.003-04:00

During the month of Kartik (late September and early October), the Nepalese people indulge in the biggest festival of the year, Dashain. Dashain is the longest and the most auspicious festival in the Nepalese annual calendar, celebrated by Nepalese of all caste and creed throughout the country. The fifteen days of celebration occurs during the bright lunar fortnight ending on the day of the full moon. Thorough out the kingdom of Nepal the goddess Durga in all her manifestations are worshiped with innumerable pujas, abundant offerings and thousands of animal sacrifices for the ritual holy bathing, thus drenching the goddess for days in blood.

A most happy and auspicious Dashain Festival to all of my friends near and far bringing you much joy and good fortune!!!

To learn more about Dashain, click the title to the article.

Winds of Change???

2008-09-30T23:03:00.003-04:00

The new government of Nepal, led by the Maoist party, is beginning to make it's mark. It's far too early to draw finite conclusions but there are some indications that the wind of change are blowing in my home away from home.

The government is making efforts to deport undocumented Tibetans for the very first time.

Members of the Maoist army have entered the parliament building adorned with automatic weapons in order to provide 'security' to constituent assembly members.

The Miss Nepal pageant has been cancelled following complaints that the pageant discriminated against women of darker skin and shorter stature.

There has been a crackdown in activities in dance bars, etc.

The state-run Trust Corporation, overseeing cultural affairs, appointed the new Kumari, or living goddess. In the past, Kumari was chosen by the head priest of the monarchy, now abolished.

Government officials have reached out to the rogue government of Iran to establish "closer" relations.

An infusion of money from China into the Nepalase Army.

The launch of another armed youth force, this time by the Nepali Congress, to join the YCL (Maoist) and one by the UML.

My friends in Nepal are not yet experiencing an improvement in basic services such as sanitation, petrol availability, road conditions, or healthcare.

Stay tuned.

One Month to Nepal!!!

2008-09-30T22:50:00.002-04:00

I'm only one month away from landing again in Kathmandu! I'm sooooooooo happy! During this visit I will be able to finally go trekking and see things outside the Kathmandu Valley. I can't wait to see my friends again!

This week is my sale: Shop the Himalayas for the Holidays (without the jetlag!) I'm selling the purses, jewelry and other things I brought back from Nepal in support of the Women's Skills Development Project and the Manakamana Handicraft Cooperative. I hope it goes well so I can take some money back to the people.

Buy Nepal-Women's Skills Development Project Pokhara

2008-09-12T23:48:00.001-04:00

Open House October 2,4,5

Update: Tale of Two Countries

2008-09-03T20:17:00.002-04:00

In the U.S., Hurricane Gustav came ashore with less force and surge than Katrina and the levees in New Orleans held. Many are still without electricity but, for the most part, the damage was less than expected.

Gustav, downgraded to a tropical depression, moved north and has taken up residence over Arkansas. So far, the rainfall estimates are around 7-8 inches in the last 24 hours. That is a LOT of rain. Around 90,000 Arkansans are without power tonight and there are flash flood warnings in many counties. Lots of inconvenience.

Meanwhile in southern Nepal, 60,000 people have lost their homes. In the Bihar state of Inndia, 550,000 people are displaced and another 300,000 still await rescue. The resucue, using mostly small boats, is preceding at a rate of only 25,000 per day.

The Nepal Red Cross is coordinating rescue and relief efforts in my home away from home. Interesting but not surprising, you cannot donate online directly. Another example of how much infrastructure support is needed in Nepal.

If you are interested to donate Nepal Red Cross Society right away, then click on the follwing link to DOWNLOAD THE DONATION FORM and send it to our email address dharma@nrcs.org / fundraising@nrcs.org , then you can deposit the amount in our Bank account 18-0002089- 58 of Standard Chartered Bank.

If required we will come to collect the amount in your given address.

We thank you all for your kind cooperation!

Download the Form in MS Word format

A Tale of Two Countries

2008-08-30T22:07:00.002-04:00

Tonight America holds her collective breath as Hurricane Gustav, now a Category 4 storm, barrels through the Gulf of Mexico straight toward the city of New Orleans. It's the third anniversary, to the day, of the landfall of Hurricane Katrina, the worst natural disaster to ever touch the U.S. The severe flooding that nearly destroyed that uniquely beautiful city was caused by an inadequately maintained levee, or dam, system. Most blame inadequate funding by the federal government for the breaches, the severity of the flooding and damage, and the loss of life.

Halfway around the world in a place near and dear to my heart, another natural disaster with a man-made component is unfolding. A dam on the Kosi River in eastern Nepal ruptured sending floodwaters into the surrounding area and south into India.
The goverment of Nepal has already apologized to India for not taking adequate measures to maintain the dam.

Already, at least 70 people have died in India and Nepal and that number is expected rise. More than 250,000 homes have been destroyed and a total of 3 million people affected. More rain is expected and rescuers are racing to reach those affected before the river rises again. In a reminder of New Orleans, people are being rescued from the rooftops of their homes by small boats and relocated to camps. With the lack of drinking water and food, UNICEF has noted the rise in the cases of diarrhea and other infectious diseases.

From the people of America to the people of Nepal and India, our thoughts and prayers are with you. We ask that you pray for us as well as Hurricane Gustav approaches our coastline.

A Continuing Sign of Hope: Nepal's Journalistic Freedom

2008-08-29T12:19:00.003-04:00

One of the positive things I noticed while visiting Nepal was the large number of newspapers, websites and blogs writing and publishing open critique of the events as they unfolded. People openly discussed their opinions about the waning days of the monarchy, the government in transition, and the effect on the people. Freedom of the press is a hallmark of participatory government, or dare I say, democracy.

Now, less than a few days following the swearing in of the Prime Minister, Maoist leader Prachanda, a major new publishing company has been formed. The new company, the Nhu Republic Media, will bring out Nhu Nepal, Nepali daily, and the New Republic, English daily in about three months.The new company plans to pump 400 million rupees into the economy over the next five years.

The company is being formed by editors who recently resigned from Kantipur Publications.

The editor of the Nepali daily will be Narayan Wagle (author of the award-winning fiction Palpasa's Cafe) who resigned from the editorship of Kantipur, Nepal’s largest daily, a few days ago. The editor of the English daily will be Ameet Dhakal who resigned from the Kathmandu Post, Nepal’s prominent English daily, a few days ago.

The editors wished success of Kantipur terming that as “the best newsroom in the country”. They said they wanted a strong and vibrant newspaper in Kantipur so that they could compete with a strong team and paper. They said they will be focusing mainly in the Kathmandu markets in the beginning- at least the first year- and go outside valley depending on how they perform in Kathmandu.

“We will be driven by journalistic principles,” he said and said that commercial priorities would be second to the newspapers.

Wow, putting journalistic principles over making money? America, are you listening?

China First, India Second

2008-08-27T09:42:00.002-04:00

Nepalese prime ministers traditionally visit India after they take office.

However, this Prime Minister, Maoist Prachanda, visited China first. He attended the closing ceremony of Beijing Olympics and met top leaders.

India has a major influence on Nepal's political and economical matters, while China keeps its distance.

Nepal gets all its oil products and most of its consumer goods from India. Landlocked Nepal also has to depend on India to move cargo and passenger traffic.

The Prime Minister said not to worry. He plans to keep an "equi-distant" relationship between India and China.

Interesting.

The New Government: Where are the Women???

2008-08-27T09:35:00.002-04:00

One of the major platforms of the Maoist Party was gender equity and inclusiveness. I mean, they made a big deal, and rightly so, about how the monarchy and the old feudal system in Nepal kept women out of the ranks of the powerful.

Prachanda, the new Prime Minister, has now appointed the new set of Ministers - like our Cabinet in the U.S. Executive Branch. There are NO women ministers.

Where are the Women???

Disaster Relief Plea Issued by Embassy

2008-08-24T17:23:00.000-04:00

The monsoon season in Nepal this year has been particularly disastrous for people living to the southeast of Kathmandu. Yes, it's a natural disaster. But like the Katrina flooding of New Orleans, part of the blame for the severity of the disaster lies in the hands of the government. The dams and levees there were in bad shape.

The Embassy of Nepal, Washington DC appeals to all friends of Nepal to contribute funds to support relief efforts for the people affected by the recent flooding by Saptakoshi River in south east Nepal.

The flooding has severely affected more than 50,000 people who urgently need support for their daily livelihood and protect their lives from diseases. Not only government organizations, but also non-governmental organizations, people from private sector and civil societies have been actively involved in the rescue efforts.

Members of the Embassy Staff have decided to contribute seven days salary to the Prime Minister’s Relief Fund as a token of assistance to the victim of flooding to help immediate relief efforts. The Embassy of Nepal urges all to contribute generously to help relief endeavors of the government of Nepal.

A Full Day's Work: Obtaining Petrol

2008-08-24T12:15:00.002-04:00

Looks like when I return to Nepal I can count on a lot more walking. Very good for my health!!!

Edited from a story by Tripti Lahiri in Yahoo! News

In fuel-starved Nepal, filling tank is a full day's job

How to get hold of petrol is one of the hottest topics in Nepal ever since its sole supplier, India, began refusing to sell fuel on credit a year ago to Nepal's state-run fuel monopoly, which owes it millions of dollars.
The ensuing shortage has led to rationing and pump queues of several kilometres.
The three men standing by their cars as night fell peered into the little white taxi, and recognising the Nepali cab driver as a friend, hissed, "Need petrol? We know where you can get some."
The driver slowed, and said he would return later for the few litres of black market petrol that would save him from losing an entire day queueing.
"I parked the truck in this line at 7:00 pm yesterday," said food transporter Krishna Bahadur Shrestha, 40, who was number 56 in a queue for diesel.
"They will only give me 10 or 15 litres. I won't be able to run my truck for even a full day on that."
In recent months -- despite a hike in government-set prices in June -- the supply has shrunk even more as rising crude costs that India passes on to Nepal have further limited how much the landlocked Himalayan country can buy in cash.
But the Nepali government continues to subsidise pump prices for fear of widespread protests in the country, still navigating a two-year-old peace process that saw Maoist rebels lay down their arms after a decade of war.
The policy has led the Nepal Oil Corporation into a sink-hole of almost 230 million dollars of debt -- and counting.
In July it was only able to import half what it needed, which it sold at a loss of 11 million dollars. Most of that was from diesel, which sells at a loss of 40 US cents a litre.
"Our purchasing price is higher than our selling price," said Mukunda Prasad Dhungel, deputy director of Nepal Oil Corporation's fuel supply and distribution department.
"The price is fixed by government. We can't do much," he said, adding the government needs to overhaul its fuel policy.
Maoist leader Prachanda, sworn in this month as the country's new prime minister following the abolition of Nepal's monarchy, has promised to tackle food and fuel shortages gripping impoverished Nepal -- but has not said how.
Meanwhile, Nepali workers devote multiple hours -- or even days -- each week to filling up. Drivers jostle to keep their spots every time the queue edges forward, while enterprising snack and water sellers flock to the lines and the captive customers.
Where possible, Nepalis try to keep their ears open for anyone who might be stockpiling some fuel to sell on the black market.
"One week ago I waited in the queue to refill the tank but when my turn came the gas station ran out of petrol. I wasted six hours of waiting," said taxi driver Bir Bahadur Lama, 48.
He eventually bought five litres from a bus driver who picked up extra fuel on a trip south to the region bordering India.
"Life is getting miserable," said Lama, who earns 103 dollars a month but owes almost twice that in monthly payments on the new taxi he bought last year.
Recently he has had to borrow from friends and family to make the payments, racking up a hefty debt.
"I think I put my money in the wrong place," said a morose Lama. "I spend more time queuing up at gas stations than waiting for customers."
Even those who don't depend directly on fuel for livelihood are suffering.
Food prices have gone up 20-30 percent in recent months, according to the UN's World Food Programme, because farmers have had to pay more to run tractors and transporters charge more to get food to markets.
"This subsidy is destroying the country," said Shiva Prasad Ghimire, president of Nepal's petroleum dealers association, which wants the government to raise prices again.
"All the development money, the money for roads, for drinking water is all going into the Nepal Oil Corporation's losses."

Where Have I Been?

2008-08-24T12:12:00.002-04:00

I've been hanging out with Katie who returned to college this past Thursday *sigh*, and reconnecting with friends. I miss Katie ALOT already!

The other thing I've been doing is grieving Nepal. I miss my friends there SOOOOO much!

I couldn't have said it better myself: BBC Story on the Prime Minister

2008-08-16T14:21:00.002-04:00

Prachanda: The challenges ahead

The elevation of Nepal's chief Maoist, the leader of the former rebels, Prachanda, to the prime ministership is something he could barely have dreamt of just three years ago.

By the early 1980s, with political parties still banned, "The Fierce One" had abandoned his job as a teacher and was operating underground as an outlaw.

Not until 2006 did he appear in public again, after the end of a decade-long Maoist insurgency that cost 13,000 lives.

Whether he retains his war name or reverts to being Pushpa Kamal Dahal, the new prime minister has a massive task ahead of him.

The euphoria surrounding the restoration of democracy two years ago; the successful elections this April; the historic end of the monarchy shortly afterwards - these have been milestones.

The last two years have been full of historic symbolism as the old Hindu kingdom became a secular republic, sweeping away all references to its past, to the delight of some and the dismay of others.

But at the same time, state authority has crumbled so much that many Nepalis are in utter despair.

Squabbling

A sense of anarchy prevails nationwide, so much so that mention of the phrase "the government" tends to elicit scornful sniggers.

Crime and violence have spiralled. The slightest grievance brings people onto the street to demonstrate or blockade. For example, eastern Nepal has been at a complete standstill for six days, called by transport workers in protest at the murder of a bus driver and a broad lack of security.

Not only that. The shortages of petrol, diesel, kerosene and gas are beyond measure because the authorities won't balance the financial books.

There is severe hunger in the hills. There are power cuts at the height of the rainy season. The police appear unable to do anything other than arrest demonstrating Tibetans.

The politicians including the Maoists have largely ignored all this, squabbling about ministry allocation for weeks on end and scarcely acknowledging ordinary people' problems.

Luckily most Nepalis are adept at getting on with their lives despite their rulers, so the country has not imploded.

As prime minister, Prachanda will also have to draw together a country which for the past year-and-a-half has been displaying new and worrying fissures along ethnic and regional lines.

As a man who comes from the hills but moved to the southern flatlands as a child, he is only too aware of the widening rift in the south between people of hill origin and the Madhesis -southerners ethnically close to neighbouring Indians who have been campaigning against their marginalisation since late 2006.

Although the new president and his deputy are both Madhesis, the community's sense of grievance persists.

Violence in the south-east bubbles away, with shadowy rebel or criminal groups proliferating and people dying each week.

In July a Roman Catholic priest was killed by a militant Hindu group waging what it called an "anti-Muslim campaign".

In an ethnically complex society, many more regional groups are emerging and clamouring, mostly peacefully, for inclusion.

Perhaps the biggest question is how the Maoists can transform themselves into a party of government.

'Switzerland of Asia'

After the Maoists' surprise but convincing victory in the April elections, their deputy leader admitted to having some "sleepless nights" given the prospect of running the country.

Having promised, extravagantly, to make Nepal into the "Switzerland of Asia", they have encouraged high expectations.

Nepalese traditionalists worry that the former rebels retain a totalitarian bent.

This is a party which still sports Stalin as an icon and praises him - alongside Mao, of course. It has not renounced violence.

Less than two years ago Prachanda told the BBC Nepali Service: "As a party struggling for the hard-working people, we should not torture anyone, even when someone needs to be eliminated."

Since the election, many accounts have emerged of the way Maoist cadres cheated at the ballot boxes in far-off places, and in May party members killed a businessman inside a military camp.

Yet now could also be the time when the Maoists are given a chance to prove themselves: to show they are serious about the social transformations in whose name they went to war.

They have a very strong presence in the villages, and many now long for them to be able to build on the starts they have made at eroding caste and gender discrimination.

They also promise a more equitable system of land ownership.

This will be a test of other politicians, too: of whether they can shake off their ingrained habit of trying to do down their rivals and prevent others from getting credit for change.

There are still further challenges ahead.

Many people whose near and dear ones died or disappeared during the conflict are awaiting truth and justice. They will want the authorities to provide it.

On a different matter, having a Maoist prime minister may help resolve the future of the 19,000 Maoist former combatants still in camps as part of the UN-assisted peace process.

With a new prime minister and president at last in place, one more task can also get properly under way - the writing of a new constitution by the huge assembly elected in April.

Hitherto its members have complained that the body is being marginalised by the usual coterie of establishment politicians.

There has been enough talking. The work must now begin.

I was Right...It's "The Fierce One" for PM!

2008-08-15T14:21:00.004-04:00

Maoist chairman Pushpa Kamal Dahal 'Prachanda' has been elected as the first prime minister of republic Nepal by securing majority votes on Friday's election.

Prachanda garnered 464 votes while the Nepali Congress members of the Constituent Assembly voted against him. According to CA chairman Subas Nemwang, 577 of the total 601 CA members took part in the election.

The three alliance partners, Maoists, UML and MJF, now have to finalize the composition of cabinet and the "Common Minimum Programme." Leaders will resume talks on Saturday.

For some interesting commentary check out the "United We Blog" link in the column on the right side of this page.

Prediction: Maoist Prime Minister for Nepal

2008-08-14T17:33:00.004-04:00

FACT: Prachanda, the leader of Nepal's Maoist party, has filed his candidacy for the office of Prime Minister. The election is Friday.

FACT: The Maoists, and their People' Liberation Army, led a campaign of armed struggle for over a decade which led to the abolishment of Nepal's 240 year old monarchy this year.

FACT: The Maoist Party is now a political force after winning over one-third of the seats in the Consituent Assembly elections this past April.

FACT: As the leading party, the Maoists are responsible for leading the new government and the effort to draft Nepal's new Constitution.

FACT: The Maoists were shut out of the posts of President and Vice-President after failing to gain the support of the other parties.

Those are the facts. What's the buzz?

The Maoists have learned their earlier lessons and have forged an alliance with Nepal's third biggest party -- the Communist Party of Nepal (Unified Marxist-Leninist) -- meaning Prachanda has an excellent shot at winning the post.

With 298 votes needed to elect the prime minister by simple majority, the Maoists have 227 , while the UML has 108. Combined, they ensure the election of Prachanda. The only opposition will come from Nepal's oldest and second biggest party, the Nepali Congress. Congress, led by the current prime minister Girija Prasad Koirala, will field a candidate on Friday and will not participate in the new government if they are defeated, their spokesman said. They have promised to sit on the opposition benches yet play a constructive role so that the peace process remains on track.

The Nepali Congress and the CPN-UML have demanded Maoist Chief Prachanda's resignation as head of the rebel guerrilla army as a pre-condition for their support. They assert that the Nepali Congress should be given control over the country's defenses if the Maoists want to win the election. CPN-UML leaders warn that if the Maoists do not return the seized property and dissolve the semi-military structure of its Young Communist League (YCL) within a specified time frame, his party may withdraw support to the government.

Urging the Nepali Congress to join the Maoist-led government, the CPN-UML will make efforts until the last moment to form a government with national consensus. However, the government formation is not expected to be delayed further regardless of Nepali Congress joining the government.

This time, my money is on Prachanda.

Time for a NEW Living Goddess

2008-08-13T09:50:00.004-04:00

This is serious stuff and important to many people in Nepal.

The search has begun to replace the current Kumari, or "living goddess." She is considered by many as an incarnation of the powerful deity Kali and is revered until she menstruates, after which she must return to the family. Many Nepali Hindus and Buddhists consider Kumari as an embodiment of Taleju Bhavani, the goddess of strength.

The current Kumari, Preeti Shakya, is now 11 years old and should retire during the annual Hindu festival of Dasain in October. "If we don't change her now, we'll have to wait until next year which could be late," said Deepak Bahadur Pandey, a senior official of the state-run Trust Corporation that oversees the country's cultural matters. "If the girl starts menstruating while serving as Kumari, it is considered inauspicious," Pandey told Reuters on Tuesday. Astrologers are consulting horoscopes of candidates from Buddhist Shakya families to replace her. Traditionally it was believed that the girl's horoscope should be in harmony with that of the king of Nepal (except this is no longer a requirement since there is no longer a King!) The girl who is chosen as the new Kumari must possess 32 attributes. Not too different than the choosing of a new Dalai Lama.

Once chosen, Kumari lives in the Kumari Ghar, a wooden temple in Kathmandu's Durbar Square...right around the corner from the guesthouse where Carly and I stayed. Here's a photo of her digs. She appears at these windows during festivals and on other occasions. Foreigners are barred from the upstairs chamber of Kumari, a leading tourist attraction.

On Indra Jatra, in September, the Living Goddess in all her jeweled splendor travels through the older part of Kathmandu city in a three tiered chariot accompanied by Ganesh and Bhairab each day for three days. It is really a grand gala in which people in their thousands throng in and around the Square to pay their homage to the Living Goddess.

Up until now, one of her main functions was to bless the king. This tradition began with the first king of the Shah dynasty, who annexed Kathmandu in 1768, received a blessing from the Living Goddess. Now that the monarchy has been abolished and the King is no more, what's a living goddess to do?

STILL Waiting: The People of Nepal

2008-08-10T22:54:00.004-04:00

The wonderful and hardworking people of Nepal are STILL waiting: on the chance for a better life; decent roads; available and affordable petrol; and the consistent delivery of services like healthcare, education, literacy, utilities, waste management, clean water and sanitation, and security.

Is a government that works for the people too much to ask for?

Obviously so. The political parties have been deadlocked over power sharing since the abolition of the 240-year-old monarchy on May 28, and have yet to form the sorely needed new government.

Since a resolution through the consensus process has remained elusive, newly elected President Ram Baran Yadav, today, formally directed the Chairman of the Constituent Assembly to elect a new prime minister and government through a majority vote. Nepal's mainstream parties -- CPN-Maoist, Nepali Congress, CPN-UML and Madhesi People's Rights Forum (MPRF) -- failed to meet all deadlines to reach a consensus on a Maoist-led coalition. It seems they could not agree on the distribution of the key areas of defense, home and finance.

Here's the rub:
The CPN-UML party is pushing for a government of consensus rather than one formed by a majority. CPN-UML leader K. P. Sharma Oli said his party will not join a government led by CPN-Maoist if the Nepali Congress is excluded. It seems that the major parties are unlikely to lend support to a Maoist-led government unless they part with the crucial home and defense ministries. Conversely, the CPN-Maoist party needs the support of mainstream parties to form a government since they failed to get a majority in the landmark Constituent Assembly election.

Political leaders, however, have expressed the hope that there was still place for fielding a consensus candidate for the Prime Minister's post, with formal and informal consultations continuing among the mainstream parties. A key meeting of the CPN-Maoist and Nepali Congress today failed to end the deadlock over power sharing. The former rebels have rejected the demand that they part with control over the country's defense and security. Maoist chief Prachanda promised to come up with a final decision regarding their demand after holding internal meeting of the party.

Meanwhile, the people wait in 4-14 hour petrol lines, suffer through multiple load shedding events each week, depend on India to meet a percentage of their utility needs, walk around or through piles of garbage, drink unsafe water, use poorly sanitized facilities, continue to pay to educate their children despite only a slight chance of a decent job, work long and hard hours to harvest and gather food, work overseas to send $$$ back home, and feed the blackmarket just to survive.

C'mon.....

Toto, I Don't Think We're in Kathmandu Anymore

2008-08-10T11:29:00.003-04:00

I'm home in Little Rock after a two-day journey on three flights. My jetlag is minimal as I was able to sleep in a hotel in Doha (compliments of Qatar Airways) and at the home of Ken and Patti Tolo in Washington, DC. It is GREAT to be here with Katie, Maggie, Mewmew! I am very much looking forward to reconnecting with friends and Clinton School classmates, faculty and staff and hearing the stories of summer adventures.

On my way home I appreciated some not so subtle changes in my activities of daily living which indicated that I was no longer in Kathmandu. Here are a few:

In Doha:

Cars outnumbered motorbikes 50:1.
No cows or goats on the road.
Abundant petrol.
I went into the hotel bathroom without my flipflops and the floor was dry.
I flushed the TP.
I brushed my teeth with water from the tap and I SWALLOWED it without fear of later gastrointestinal retribution!
The bathroom actually had a bathtub, and water from the showerhead did not rain down on the toilet.
My mattress was more than 1.5 inches thick.
My pillow did not feel like a brick.
Dinner was a very decadent buffet with fresh salad and fruit...and my stomach did not knot up in worry while eating it.
People were NOT friendly.
No one said "Namaste!" (I'm beginning to appreciate what a lyrically cheery greeting that is!)
The TV had BBC and CNN on it.
The news actually reported all of the arrests of Tibetan protesters at the Chinese embassy in Kathmandu. (Did we ever see that on the news in KTM?)

In Washington/Bethesda:

Free and fast WiFi! (...which I have decided is life's greatest luxury!)
Strawberries, blueberries and bagels for breakfast. (No milk tea. Sorry, Carly!)
A full night's sleep without a chorus of barking dogs.
No 5am worship bells or the scent of incense wafting in through my windows.
A 20 minute taxi ride cost $45.
People were actually out jogging.
I ate a sandwich on whole grain bread!

Except for being with Katie, I'd trade it all away for another week in Nepal.

We'll see if my current opinion stands the test of time!

"See You!" Kathmandu Farewell

2008-08-07T21:08:00.005-04:00

"See You!" is used by my friends in the Kathmandu Valley as a way of saying "goodbye" in the same way that "Namaste!" is said as a means of greeting.

"See You!" Nepal. I'll be back later in the fall.

The only thing carrying me through my heavy-hearted departure from Kathmandu is the thought of seeing Katie and sharing my Nepali gifts and stories with her.

Honestly, I do not want to leave at all. As I've been telling all of my friends, I am very good in Nepal: physically, emotionally, intellectually and spiritually. So for quite selfish reasons, I want to stay.

Nepal is also a place in which, in most situations you find yourself in, the things that you do and say make a difference. In a place where family and relationships are important, the gift of your time and your words make a big difference. In the moment, you can feel the meaning of your life. In a place where making money is difficult, the smallest gift or effort to support someone's life is deeply appreciated and usually effective.

I've had a tremendous send-off: a party in my honor from the staff of READ Nepal; brunch and great conversaton with Saubhagya; dinner in my honor by my family at the guesthouse; cake with Carly; a sari from Shanti; time in Bhaktapur with Sudip and a beautiful stone from him with a mountain scene signifying our future treks and fun together; and, a ride to the airport with one of my favorite taxi drivers.

My heart is here in Nepal and I'll be back...very soon!

SEE YOU!

Carly's Nepali Birthday Celebration

2008-08-03T10:12:00.010-04:00

Last weekend we celebrated Carly's birthday in both American and Nepali styles. The Kathmandu Three went upscale to a resort called Park Village took in a little poolside sunbathing and massage therapy.
The next morning we walked up to see the Sleeping Vishnu. Vishnu is asleep on a bed of snakes in a pool and it that it is a forbidden place for all kings and monarchs (something about being struck dead if they visit.) Each morning the faithful visit and place gifts at Vishnu's feet - marigolds, rice, incense.

From there, Carly and Molly headed back to the pool, while I hiked up to through the Shivapuri National Forest to Nambe Gompa, a Buddhist nunnery. From there I had the loveliest view of the Kathmandu Valley. Of course, along the way, several Nepali people stopped me to talk and make sure I wasn't lost. Two guys, along with their nephews walked with me into the National Park to make sure I knew which turn to take. They offered to walk with me all the way. In America, I would have been very wary of their offer. In Nepal, NAH. It's the way it is here and it's why, I keep telling you, over and over, this is the place to be if you want to reclaim your humanity and have your heart cracked wide open by the affection of fellow human beings.

Upon our Sunday night return, The Mulepati family - our guesthouse hosts - helped throw a birthday party with traditional Nepali food and RACHSI - homemade whisky. We also had the yummy chocolate banana cake from our local Snowman Cafe. Here's the birthday gang!

My Project is DONE! PARTY!

2008-08-03T09:59:00.010-04:00

Last week I completed my project for READ Nepal. I wrote a Monitoring and Evaluation Plan for them and then held a series of trainings/workshops with them to populate the plan with information specific to the targeted outcomes of READ. They have already collect a lot of data on the activities of the libraries but had not tied it to the strategic plan or written expected outcomes.

During my time there I also helped with a number of grant proposals, gave input into their annual report (now linked through the evaluation process.) I also set up a meeting between READ and Heifer International to consider collaborating in the villages where both have projects..."creating synergy" as they call it here in Nepal.

Tuesday night, the all of the staff, except Indra who was out of town, took me to dinner and gave me gifts. In this photo from the dinner are Pushap, Pratima and Sanjana. That same day I brought ice cream/cake rolls into the office so that I could thank the volunteers as well.

My one regret is that they were not able to get me out into the field to see more of the libraries. This experience has confirmed what I already suspected. I do not want to be a "desk jockey" in the developing world. I want to work in the field more often. I plan on formal Nepali language training both before my return to Nepal and during my stay here.

Yeah, I plan to return to Nepal in the late fall to complete an independent study!

Finally, I have learned so much from the people I have worked with. They are all dedicated superstars and all work so hard in a difficult situation. The READ libraries are really community development centers where children, women, parents, housewives, teachers, youth, and others work together and learn the art of self-determination and empowerment. The libraries are open to all and indeed, have remained zones of peace during the time of the conflict, political transition and the new days of this young Democratic Republic of Nepal.

Cremations and Circambulations: Pashiputinath and Boudhanath

2008-08-01T02:27:00.008-04:00

Thurdsday evening a week ago Sudip walked with me out to Pashiputinath, one of the holiest Hindu shrines in Nepal, and then on to Boudhanath, the holiest of Buddhist places in the valley. Pashiputinath is built along the Bagmati River and is the site of many of the valley's cremations. On that evening we witnessed six cremations from our bench on the opposite riverbank. The funeral pyres are separated into upper and lower caste sections. On that day, the upper caste cremations were attended by a number of mourners taking shelter, underneath their umbrellas, from the afternoon monsoon. The lower caste funeral pyres went largely unattended. I hope that is not the case everyday. We did cross the bridge and walked closer to the ceremonies but, out of respect for the dead, I refrained from taking more photos.

Like Swayambunath, the temples at Pushipatinath are also inhabited by a cadre of monkeys. Here is a shot of a mother monkey making sure I did not get too close to her baby...Great snarl, huh?
Being someone who "gets" Buddhism much more than I "get" Hinduism, I was much more at home once we arrived at Boudhanath. We joined the crowd circambulating the very large stupa, spinning the prayer wheels as we went. We then went up to a rooftop cafe where the sight of the stupa at dusk, the sounds of the circling footsteps and the beating gong, and the aroma of the incense was intoxicating. Peaceful, peaceful.The next morning, I again joined those rounding the stupa - always clockwise and an uneven number of times - and conversed with a number of people there. I also visited a Thangka painting school and learned more about this ancient art. I got to see the students at work, honing their craft.

As I awaited Sudip's return I sat on a bench and noticed an elderly woman in her '80s who was taking a break from her circambulations. She had gotten hot and I had the wonderful opportunity of sharing with and then giving my umbrella to her. What a great day for me. Boudhanath is a very special place forever in my memory bank.

International Incident continued..."Kathmandu is CLOSED"

2008-08-01T01:59:00.006-04:00

In my previous post on the newly elected executive branch I mentioned that the VP had caused a small international incident by taking his oath of office in Hindi rather than Nepali.

http://www.sajhachautari.com/index.php?page=youtube&op=show&id=368

Well, the reaction from the Nepali people was quite strong and the protests effectively shut down Kathmandu on Monday and Tuesday. As one of my friends said, "Kathmandu is CLOSED." I have since learned that this is the phrase that was used frequently during the ten years of political turmoil and insurgency. Here's a photo from a youth group showing just how strongly they feel about their new VP.

Of course I had no idea what was going on and headed out to run errands only to find most of the stores closed. I saw streets blocked by burning piles of trash and tires, a common protest strategy here. Later, Sudip and I headed out to walk to the fair trades stores across the river in Patan. On the way, we encountered a huge protest on Kanti Path near the Martyr's Gate and witnessed the hanging and burning of an effigy of the VP over an elevated pedestrian walkway. We were on a parallel walkway over Kanti Path and had a great view. After the burning VP dropped to the ground the crowd beat it with sticks. The gathering also threw rocks at taxis and other vehicles violating the roads but were letting school buses and ambulances go through. The security police were remarkably restrained and according to Sudip, much more so than in previous years. Hello freedom of speech and non-violent (well, mostly) protest.

Here's another strong article on the matter published in The American Chronicle:

http://www.americanchronicle.com/articles/69611

The following day the VP offered a formal apology to the people and said he did not intend to insult the people, the nation, or Nepali nationalism, and promised to not offend again in the future.

There are some quite intricate political entanglements between India and Nepal that I am just beginning to understand. Nepal controls the flow of water from the Himalayas to India and has, with the building of more hydroelectric plants, the potential for selling utilities downstream as well. Nepal, as best I can tell, very much wants sovereignty without a lot of control by India or the rest of us. Interesting stuff.

A Witness to History

2008-07-25T01:49:00.002-04:00

Kanti Path, one of Kathmandu’s busiest, noisiest and smoggiest streets, was eerily quiet on my walk home day before yesterday. In fact there were no vehicles or bikes at all ...just the sidewalks crammed with several hundred people watching the empty road. Just as I was approaching a fellow Nepali to issue an inquiry I received my answer, visually: the motorcade carrying Nepal’s newly elected President and VP was speeding by, flanked and followed by numerous military police vehicles. They were on the way to the Palace for the swearing in ceremonies.

Emerging from the “most extreme period” (to quote my friend Prof. Saubhagya Shah) in her 235+ year history, Nepal, throught the vote of the Constituent Assembly, elected her FIRST-EVER President and VP.

Those elected were a surprise to many Nepalis and much of the world. Since the Maoist Party won the popular vote and the most seats in the Constituent Assembly, their leader “Prachanda” had been lobbying and jockeying for the top post.

However, the Maoists were left temporarily out in the cold as the final behind-closed-doors negotiations between the varous parties unfolded. The original plan had been to share power by letting the Maoists lead the government under the prime ministership, but set aside the presidency for the Nepali Congress (NC) and the chairmanship of the assembly for the UML (moderate Marxist-Leninists). However, the Maoists insisted on being both head of state and head of government, while the NC insisted on Girija Koirala as its president. An alliance between the Maoists and the UML broke down when promises made became promises broken. Throw in the Madhesi party (MJF - remember - they're the populus Terai-based party that wanted to become their own automous state) eager to align with whomever they could share power, and you have the result.

The Winners?
The run-off voting for President saw 590 ballots being cast, with Dr. Ram Baran Yadav (Nepali Congress Party) getting 308 votes and the Maoist candidate Ram Raja Prasad Singh scoring 280 according to an unofficial tally. His election was a result of an Nepali Congress (NC)- United Marxist Leninist (UML) –Madhesi Front (MJF) alliance which spelled an end to the ill-fated Maoist-UML bond, and widened the gap between the parties. Dr. Yadav is a physician and former health minister of Madhesi ethnicity who is seen as a moderate. He had previously remained a loyalist, refusing to defect to join the Madhesi movement saying it would fragment the country. So, he is Madhesi but not a member of the MJF. Some would call him “old guard” and with the Nepali Congress soundly defeated in the April election most see his win this week as a surprise. He has two children educated and living in the U.S. and one in the U.K. The VP is named Pradesh Jha. Interestingly, though HIS oath delivered in Nepali, he recited it in Hindu, causing some sort of minor international incident. Some members of the Madhesi party and some living in the Terai are closely aligned with political influence from India so this is interpreted by some to be anti-nationalist.

Despite the MJF's opposition to Dr. Yadav, the election of Madhesis as president and vice-president, analysts say, will go some way in redressing the grievances of the Terai -based people that they have traditionally been under-represented in the political power structure in Kathmandu.

So where does all of this leave the Maoists? – crafters of the ten year violent insurgency and winners of April’s popular election?
CPN-Maoist chairman Prachanda said his party would sit on the opposition benches, as their presidential candidate lost the historic run-off. Addressing a press conference of party secretariat organized in Singha Durbar, Prachanda termed the alliance between NC, CPN-UML and Madhesi Janadhikar Forum ‘unholy, revengeful and apolitical’ and warned of a political confrontation in the days ahead. The Maoists, being the leading party in the Constituent Assembly, are responsible for leading the government and the crafting of the constitution.
Interesting, interesting, and definitely worth watching.

Riding on TOP of the Bus - We are now REAL Nepalis

2008-07-22T02:19:00.014-04:00

Weekend before last, our friend and trekking guide, Sudip, took Carly and I, by bus, to Dhulikhel on the rim of the Kathmandu Valley, then hiking the rest of the way up to the Namobuddha Monastery. The stupa itself is ancient but the monastery is only about five years old. It's an peaceful place up on a hillside overlooking the valley and terrace farms. We discovered that the place is very sacred because the Buddha was here first, then eaten by a tigress who needed to feed her cubs before being reborn at Lumbini, his official birthplace. Who knew?

While the destination was amazing, the journey was a laughter-packed adventure as well. We climbed up to a Hindu shrine that is now part of an Army camp and witnessed a woman possessed by spirits doing a Reiki healing on herself. We stood alongside the soldiers and watched. During a rain shower we took shelter at a local shop/bus stop and met a local village woman who played matchmaker. She felt very strongly that both Carly and I should have husbands and tried to interest us in the village men as they passed by. Next we encountered - well, actually, Sudip and I were spooked by - this strange 'Holy Man' who came out of his cabin while we were looking at his fish pond. He said he had many PhD degrees from the UK and his area of study was the human mind. Sudip is of the opinion that the guy is likely from India and perhaps did train in the UK but has taken in too many exogenous chemicals since them. After a brief conversation we moved on before he could exert some mind control over the three of us. I mean, you can never be too careful when encountering a guru in the woods, right?The most "thrilling" part of the weekend, however, was riding on TOP of the bus back to Dhulikhel. Because of a persistent monsoon we had to change our return plans and hike back down to the road to catch a bus. After watching overloaded buses go by (you know...100 Nepalis for 40 seats) we realized that the only way we were getting home was to ride on top of the public bus. So up the ladder we went to sit with about 30 other Nepalis. Remember that everyone in Nepal, except for the very priveleged, use the public bus system and riding on top is not a novelty for them. With this rite of passage, I conclude that I am now officially and evermore part Nepali. And I'm pretty proud of it.

Worth Waiting For

2008-07-21T07:04:00.004-04:00

I've been waiting to the entire trip to shoot this photo. I think it was worth the wait.

What do you think?

The Laid-Back Dogs of Kathmandu

2008-07-21T01:34:00.009-04:00

Carly, Molly and I have been especially impressed by the laid-back nature of the dogs of Kathmandu. Here are a couple hanging out on the steps of one of the shrines at Pashiputinath Temple.

There numbers are large since there is not a culture of animal population control here nor the personal income to afford it. When you are a professional with a Master's degree (or two) and you cannot afford to go to a movie, eat at a restaurant or buy petrol, you cannot afford to spay or neuter an animal. There is one group working to raise money for sterilization but by the looks of things they have a long way to go before they even make a dent. They are literally on every doorstep, street corner, curb, stairway and in the entryways into the small shops. Most of the dogs seem to have a home with one of the store or stall owners and certainly a few are officially owned and wear collars. To see someone out walking a dog on a leash is a true rarity. The dogs are in pretty good shape since the ones without official homes feast on the garbage piles described in a previous post.

Previously the three of of us thought that their laid back nature was an adaptation to the constant traffic, noise and chaos that is the rhythm of Kathmandu. We still think that is true. In Thamel, the motorbikes, bikes and taxis come within inches of their paws but they never move or blink an eye. They never bark or threaten us. It's like they are on puppy Prozac. IF the dogs get out of line, some people thrown small rocks at them - which I am not in favor of.

However, Carly has most aptly described their game. She says the reason these dogs sleep all day is that they are 'gangstas' that party (bark, fight and run around in gangs) all night. Her theory is that this laid back daytime demeanor is really a hangover from their nightime escapades. I think her theory carries some weight.

Oh yeah, what about the cats? WHAT cats? In this survival of the fittest kingdom there are very few cats. The only ones I have seen are behind a gated, stonewalled garden enclosure or up on a rooftop.

I miss Maggie!