Jai Nepal!

Here in Kathmandu, the declaration of the new Republic of Nepal is met with celebration and hope. Hope for peace, development and prosperity for the entire country and hope for the individuals who have been marginalized. For the Dalit man interviewed in today’s edition of The Himalayan, the hope is that he will no longer have to live like an outcast. He hopes that he can now eat in restaurants and be served tea without having to bring his own cup (considered dirty because of his caste). He hopes he can make new friends unavailable to him before. Yet, he worries that even though the system has officially changed and the new Constitution legislate will legislate equity, he may still be shunned by certain people and institutions. I am reminded of our own civil rights movement in the United States and how we continue to struggle for equality despite the rule of law. This Dalit man already knows that cultural norms and generations of bias are much harder to change than law. Here’s to hope!

Yesterday Molly and I walked home from work in Baluwatar because we were afraid of getting stuck in the gasoline strike related madness. The government controls the filling stations and when they open briefly during a strike the cabbies and other motorists have no option but to take their place in unbelievably long lines. Where these lines cross other streets traffic jams ensue. According to my map, it is about 3.5km from work back home to Freak Street which is fine except I was burdened with my laptop.

Pedestrians NEVER have the right of way in Kathmandu. This the first rule of survival in this city and one you must never forget. However, it just one day I am already developing an intuitive sense that moves me along with the flow, navigates the dung-filled potholes, narrowly avoids the motorbike that stops right in front of me without warning, and moves me out of the way of the rear-approaching cars and bikes. There is a strange rhythm to all of this and I can see that I will get used to it.

Noteworthy things from yesterday’s journey:
I experienced a near-goring by a cow. Tightly hugging the side of the road (to avoid being run over) we closely passed an oncoming cow and her calf. Molly took my picture as I walked by the cow right after which the cow sharply turned her head and horn into my rib cage. OUCH!

The military were out in force in preparation for today’s announcement of the new Republic. Ain’t nothin’ like passing by out-pointed rifles held by troops in barricades along the street. But for those of you who ten d to worry, don’t. REALLY. I’m safe here. It’s an everyday thing here and the residents have a very nonchalant attitude about it.

My time in Nepal began beautifully. As the plane descended the tops of the snow-capped Himalayas poked through the 15,000 level cloud cover. Amazing. Mt. Everest right in front of me. As we broke through the clouds, the "hills" surrounding the Kathmandu Valley appeared. Keep in mind that the Nepal hills are as high as the Colorado Rockies. Terrace farming and small homes lined the ridges. The valley then appeared in it's colorful garb. The homes are painted bright colors and the people wear primary color silks. The entire descent was surreal. I kept saying "OMIGOD!" under my breath.

Molly and Carly came with Monish, my guesthouse host, to pick me up. I was VERY glad to see them. Freak Street, where our guesthouse is located, is crazy and New Road even crazier. For now, let me say that everything is on the road and nothing obeys the rules. Cows, bikes, dogs, motorbikes, rickshaws and cabs somehow coexist. You just have to practice letting go when you hop in the cab's back seat.

I've acquired my rupees and in country cell phone, learned where to get my bottled water, and fallen in love with Nepali tea. The three of us went to dinner last night and I fell in love with momos - like potstickers only better - steamed and spicy.

I have learned that the Nepali day begins at dawn (5am) when the roosters crow (yes, I am in the big city). Work doesn't begin until 9:30 or 10. Breakfast is Nepali tea (did I mention that I am in love with it?) and toast. The Nepalis have Dal Baat at around 10. Lunch is late. Bedtime is around 9pm - 10pm at the latest. The dogs bark all night.

Today was my first day at work at READ Nepal. I have my own desk. They brought me water and tea (did I mention the tea yet?) and flowers and their grace. What they say about the Nepali people is true: they are the loveliest of people. Everyone wants to talk and share and learn and help.

Life if so good here. More again soon.

Thanks to everyone who donated to READ during the Garden Party for Nepal event - either on-line or in person. We topped our goal of raising $1000!!!

Here's what this donation can accomplish:
40 sets of educational toys for the children’s section @$25 each OR
20 sets of children's books in Nepali for ages 3-15 @ $50 each OR
10 Women's sections @$100 each OR
4 sets of World Book Encyclopedias @ $250 each OR
2 sets of shelves, tables and chairs @ $500 each OR
1 Pre-school center @ $1,000 each.

The people of Nepal, and the staff and volunteers of READ will decide the fate of the donation.

This evening, Katie and I are hosting the Garden Party for Nepal in the backyard. It's a welcome home from college party for Katie and a send-off to Nepal party for me. But, REALLY, it's designed to keep my heebie jeebies at bay. As I write this, I am about 54 hours away from boarding a plane for Kathmandu, and my pre-trip anxiety has started to kick in. Being the smart person I am, I have learned a thing or two about living with me and knew that I would need a distraction------PAAARTYYYYYYYY!!! So, today, instead of 'checkin' my list, checkin' it twice', I'm looking for that tequila punch recipe and thinking about what time I'll put the brownies in the oven. Smart.