Jai Nepal!

Today was a business day so we rented a motorbike and visited the Women's Skills Development Project production center. This is the place where the women learn to loom the fabric for those great purses! We met with RamKali, the Executive Director and their current designer, a young woman from Japan. What a great day!

This is the view I woke up to the first morning in Pokhara. It's Machupuchere or Fishtail Mountain, part of the Annapurna Range. Yeah, it's breathtaking.








So Sudip decides we should rent a boat and row over to a trailhead on the other side of the lake....only he fails to tell me that he knows nothing about rowing about a boat so I get to be the rudder. We laugh hysterically the entire way across the lake. After the hike up, we land at the World Peace Pagoda. From there we have great views of the Annapurna Range, the lake and the town of Pokhara. Nice.

On our second attempt we successfully rode the tourist bus six hours to Pokhara. We trekked up and down the road looking into the souvenier shops and then rewarded ourselves with a beer at a restaurant by Lake Fewa.

Pokhara is trash- and smog-free…at least the tourist area…and that is way more than you can say about Thamel in Kathmandu.

Sigh.

It’s a rare thing for me to be excited about getting up at 5am but I was today because it’s trekking time. Our bus was scheduled to depart for Pokhara at 7am so the 5am rising allowed me enough time to finish packing (which I did in the dark – load shedding) and walk the 40 minutes to the tourist bus park on Kanti Path. Sudip met me on Lazimpat and we were both happy to be getting out of the city.

Only thing, what bus? The buses didn’t show up that morning because the valley was under a bandh. A bandh is a very big transportation strike to the exponential power. Nothing moves (except feet and bicycles) and everything closes. If you try to drive you risk getting a brick thrown through your car window and if you keep your storefront open you risk the same fate for your plate glass windows. However, some of the people who own stalls or sell their wares on the street at Indra Chowk or some other alleyway or square are usually left alone. These events are designed to gain UN, foreigner, media and official attention so the main streets are where the action is.


Today’s bandh is due to the murder of two youths by, allegedly, members of the YCL – the Maoist youth force. The families and many supporters are protesting to demand that the Maoist led government take full responsibility for those responsible and provide reparations for all the loss and damages incurred. Really sad. But at least now in Nepal, the deaths of two young men calls forth a protest instead of silent resignation which is the case in so many other nations.

While heading down Kanti Path to Lazimpat, we encountered the live protests and I took a few shots along the way. For those of you who worry, don’t, we stayed safely out of the way and these shots are taken with the zoom. The protest was fronted by the security force and what we observed was angry but peaceful. We did see the bus that had its windows taken out and you can see the shattered glass on the street in the photos. There were some injuries but none that we witnessed.

It’s a surreal thing to witness for a contemporary American but makes me think about our own civil rights movement and the protests that some of my generation were involved in. More surreal still, Kathmandu and especially Kanti Path with not a vehicle in sight.

Never ones to let a little bandh spoil our day, Sudip and I decide that since this officially day 1 of our trek that we are going to trek Freak Street. We left the bus stop (you know, the one without the bus)and headed for some power breakfast at Kumari's Restaurant. Sudip is staring unhappily at his fake cappuccino which was really quite dilute mocha. I, on the otherhand, am pretty happy with my bowl of muesli/fruit/curd.











Afterwards, we walked to Indra Chowk and down Asan Tole for some “window” shopping. There are small shops and stalls but it is also a street market where the Nepali people shop for fresh veggies, spices, clothes and almost anything. I think it is a requisite part of the Kathmandu experience for everyone who visits.

Tomorrow I'm (finally) leaving Kathmandu behind to go trekking with Sudip! Knowing Sudip is true friendship bliss.

We are heading to Pokhara and will trek from there. Pokhara is also home of the Women's Skills Development Project and we plan to visit the factory and talk about handicraft stuff. Plus, I have several orders to fill!

Needless to say, I'm pretty excited!

On Sunday, at the invitation my new friend, Prabin (photo above), I attended a concert of the Kathmandu International Music Society held at the British School. The first performance was a jazz trio. The young Nepali drummer was amazing. In the second half an amazing Australian soprano sang several classical tunes. She works for an NGO here. Prabin organized the event and did a great job! Lots of culture in Kathmandu, Nepali and otherwise.






On my walk home, I was blessed with this sight. I think it is the Langtang range. This is the view that alluded Carly, Molly and I all summer.